Depressurise glow worm boiler?

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• orangesmartie Posts: 3,709

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  17/01/09 - 20:24 #2

  I have the same boiler. I don't know if you can reduce the pressure - do you still have your manual? If not i will dig mine out and have a look.
  
  Make sure you tightened the blue knob back up again.

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• fat controller Posts: 13,757

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  17/01/09 - 20:26 #3

  Only thing I can think of is to open the bleed valve on a radiator whilst the boiler is running, and let some of the water out, thus reducing the pressure. I could be totally wrong though.
  
  Look out for either 'the chimp' or 'seacam' on these boards as both are extremely knowledgeable at stuff like this.

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• Cruachan Posts: 7,211

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  17/01/09 - 20:31 #4

  fat controller wrote: »

  Only thing I can think of is to open the bleed valve on a radiator .

  
  That'll do it ... I had to do it for a friend who did the same thing. Boiler does not need to be running, though, since the system is pressurised all the time.
  
  EDIT: To be clear, you are not depressurising the boiler but the whole system. It's just that the boiler has the indicator to tell you what the pressure of the system is.

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• [Deleted User] Posts: 162

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  17/01/09 - 20:51 #5

  Ive tried bleeding the system, pressure drops while im in the process but the it rises again once i seal it all off. Tried depressurising just the boiler as per instruction manual, isolating heating flow and return then turn the valve at the back. Same result pressure goes back up once closed. Simple job has turned in to head scratcher.

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• [Deleted User] Posts: 2,753

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  17/01/09 - 20:51 #6

  If you've overpressurised a combi-boiler I think it re-pressurises itself. I once turned the knob on mine to up the pressure a bit, and forgot to close it again. For 2 days. :eek: I think the pressure thing was around the 3 mark. The whole system started making a groaning noise and water pouring out of the overflow pipe that leads outside.
  
  When I finally had the wit to realise I had the knob turned the wrong way, I shut it, and the system pressure levelled out after a while (and a bit more water pouring out of the pipe).
  
  I agree with bleeding the radiators though as well!

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• [Deleted User] Posts: 2,753

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  17/01/09 - 20:52 #7

  robbarf7 wrote: »

  Ive tried bleeding the system, pressure drops while im in the process but the it rises again once i seal it all off. Tried depressurising just the boiler as per instruction manual, isolating heating flow and return then turn the valve at the back. Same result pressure goes back up once closed. Simple job has turned in to head scratcher.

  
  Are you sure you have the knob closed and it's not still open? This is exactly what happened to me, I spent 2 days bleeding radiators till I realised.

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• fat controller Posts: 13,757

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  17/01/09 - 20:59 #8

  Truffle Cart wrote: »

  Are you sure you have the knob closed and it's not still open? This is exactly what happened to me, I spent 2 days bleeding radiators till I realised.

  
  I agree - sounds as though the valve may have jammed in the open position.

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• seacam Posts: 21,364

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  17/01/09 - 21:21 #9

  Hello robbarf7,
  
  What is the preasure reading at now?

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• [Deleted User] Posts: 162

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  17/01/09 - 21:33 #10

  Pressure has steadied out at 3.1 my partner says it has been there before bout 12 months ago, had an engineer out and all has been fine until now. Engineer didnt replace anything just reduced the pressure to normal.

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• seacam Posts: 21,364

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  17/01/09 - 22:44 #11

  robbarf7 wrote: »

  Pressure has steadied out at 3.1 my partner says it has been there before bout 12 months ago, had an engineer out and all has been fine until now. Engineer didnt replace anything just reduced the pressure to normal.

  
  3.1 is to high, it does sound to me either you are turning the wrong valve off or it's faulty.
  
  Your could also have a faulty gauge, no matter, best way to de-pressurize is to go to a rad , if flat, furthest away, if house, ground floor for both examples below.
  
  Make sure CH is off, turn off mains water and use drain cock if fitted, shallow bowl under drain off or hose,, couple of mug fulls only, tighten cock, turn mains back on and bleed rads as required, watch pressure gauge after every rad bleed.
  
  Or if no drain cock, turn both rad valves off 1 rad, making sure you note how many turns this takes per valve so you can return to those positions.
  
  Undo the large nut, either valve would do but best not TRV side, drain some water in to shallow bowl, couple of mug fulls, no more for now, tighten rad nut, return valves to position, bleed all rads as required, keep an eye on gauge, 1.5 bar is about right.
  
  Repeat process if still to high, one mug full at a time.

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• [Deleted User] Posts: 162

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  18/01/09 - 20:36 #12

  Would like to say thanks to you all. Problem solved. Pressurising tap was in the full open position. Must have got confused with it being up side down, clockwise to close :-). And depressurised like a charm at the rads.

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• [Deleted User] Posts: 2,753

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  18/01/09 - 20:38 #13

  robbarf7 wrote: »

  Would like to say thanks to you all. Problem solved. Pressurising tap was in the full open position. Must have got confused with it being up side down, clockwise to close :-). And depressurised like a charm at the rads.

  
  Glad you've sorted it out!

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• fat controller Posts: 13,757

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  18/01/09 - 20:41 #14

  Good to hear that you've got it sorted robbarf7 - nothing worse than a poorly heating system at this time of year.

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