I disconnected my pc from the mains, now I can't get wireless Internet connection.

DunnroaminDunnroamin Posts: 2,437
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My Desktop pc, using XP SP3, started making a beep beep sound, and started switching off after a couple of seconds before, finally, failing to switch on altogether.I thought it was possibly a "latch on" relay that keeps the computer switched on. I figured this was probably powered by a battery so, before digging around inside the casework, I unplugged it from the mains. Having replaced the lithium "button" battery, I reconnected the power lead and switched on. The pc booted up alright, but I had lost all wireless connection, so can't access the Internet. Before the problem occurred my EE wireless connections were listed along with their respective signal strengths, but now NVIDIA HIGH SPEED...... I can't seem to find anything that allows me to establish a wireless connection. Using my laptop, I put the question to Ask Jeeves - "How connect XP to the router wirelessly" - the answer showed the various steps and boxes to tick to set up a wireless connection, unfortunately,I didn't get any boxes on my screen that were the same as Ask....I tried System Restore but without success. Can anyone advise what steps I need to take to input the info on the EE router, please.

PS. On a totally different subject - Has DS changed its format or appearance, or have I somehow changed the settings. For example, once I could have made part of my post bold, or shown in italics, now, as I type this, there is no provision for me to do this, and instead of "Submit", I have to "Create Post"

Comments

  • TassiumTassium Posts: 31,639
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    If the PC suddenly stopped connecting to the internet then it's a fault condition.

    So the wireless card (in the PC) is faulty.

    Alternatively you have disturbed a cable inside the PC in some way.
  • cmorriscmorris Posts: 6,157
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    Remove the driver from Windows
    Remove the car from the computer and reinstall it again
    The driver will be reinstalled
  • seacamseacam Posts: 21,364
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    Or turn off your router for a minute, back on and press the WPS button when lights are all on.

    Then trouble shoot within Windows if still no connection, maybe that will do it.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 2,078
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    Might be a setting related to the adapter in the BIOS.

    It doesn't say in the OP if the Wireless adapter is USB or PCI (even PCI-E). Either way a BIOS setting could be responsible. A little input from the OP might go a long way.

    The Nvidia High Speed adapter is the LAN socket and probably the only network device being detected.

    IRQ/PnP conflicts or USB settings may prevent the adapter from being detected. Or if there is a riser card the slot might not be enabled due to IRQ slot sharing. Alternatively, if something has been disturbed, then an internal card could also be loose, an external device might have the aerial grounding somewhere on the case.
  • max99max99 Posts: 9,002
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    When you moved the PC to open it up, did you also unplug a USB wireless adapter? If so, have you plugged it back into the same USB socket?
  • tealadytealady Posts: 26,266
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    shhftw wrote: »
    Might be a setting related to the adapter in the BIOS.... an external device might have the aerial grounding somewhere on the case.
    Excellent technical knowledge. Though I think that there is a bit too much technical jargon in there for the OP!
  • TassiumTassium Posts: 31,639
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    Number one rule of technical queries... stick around! Because a dialogue is needed, especially with computers.

    But I agree that the BIOS is a good place to look, sounds very likely actually since the "beeps" were probably a BIOS mismatch after the CR2032 battery died.

    BIOS resets to default = no wifi?
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 2,078
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    seacam wrote: »
    Or turn off your router for a minute, back on and press the WPS button when lights are all on.

    Then trouble shoot within Windows if still no connection, maybe that will do it.

    Don't use WPS, it's insecure.

    https://scotthelme.co.uk/wifi-insecurity-wps/
  • StigStig Posts: 12,446
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    shhftw wrote: »

    It's insecure if your neighbour has the right software and 2 months to spare
    This instantly reduces the attack to 115.7 days to try all possible combinations or 57.8 days to try 50% based on a rate of 1 PIN per second.
  • PeteAPeteA Posts: 759
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    cmorris wrote: »
    Remove the car from the computer and reinstall it again
    The driver will be reinstalled

    Having a car in your computer would certainly cause it to cease functioning, so it's definitely a good idea to remove it. I wouldn't re-install it or its driver though, not if he can't keep his car out of a pc. He'll probably get a ban anyway. :D
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 838
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    PeteA wrote: »
    Having a car in your computer would certainly cause it to cease functioning, so it's definitely a good idea to remove it. I wouldn't re-install it or its driver though, not if he can't keep his car out of a pc. He'll probably get a ban anyway. :D

    Thanks that made me laugh ;-)
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 2,078
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    Stig wrote: »
    It's insecure if your neighbour has the right software and 2 months to spare

    You did not read far enough. Shame.
    When presenting the PIN number for verification it is actually sent in 2 halves, the first 4 digits and the last 4 digits. These separate halves are then verified independently. This presents a huge weakness in what would otherwise be a much stronger key as the effective key space has now been reduced considerably. The first half of the PIN only has 10,000 (104) possible combinations and at our rate of 1 PIN per second would only take 2.7 hours to guess all possible combinations. The second half of the PIN, due to the checksum value, only has 1,000 (103) combinations and would take a meager 16 minutes to guess all possible combinations. To go from a total time of 4 months down to 3 hours to try all possible combinations shows how the WPS protocol does not take advantage of the security offered by an 8 digit PIN. This is one of the main reasons WPS presents a weak link in the chain of your WiFi security.
  • StigStig Posts: 12,446
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    shhftw wrote: »
    You did not read far enough. Shame.
    Surely there is a mechanism within WPS enabled routers to spot the "1 PIN per second" attack and stop responding?

    Ah, yes
    The ease or difficulty of exploiting this flaw is implementation-dependent, as Wi-Fi router manufacturers could defend against such attacks by slowing or disabling the WPS feature after several failed PIN validation attempts.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_Protected_Setup#Brute-force_attack
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 2,078
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    Stig wrote: »
    Surely there is a mechanism within WPS enabled routers to spot the "1 PIN per second" attack and stop responding?

    Ah, yes

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_Protected_Setup#Brute-force_attack

    Not implemented in all firmwares or on all routers. Some don't even turn WPS off when you think you have.

    Agree to disagree? Or it could get way OT.
  • DunnroaminDunnroamin Posts: 2,437
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    Tassium wrote: »
    If the PC suddenly stopped connecting to the internet then it's a fault condition.

    So the wireless card (in the PC) is faulty.

    Alternatively you have disturbed a cable inside the PC in some way.


    I would say you were almost bang on the nail in your diagnosis. I have now solved the problem (well, almost), it was what I guess you call a wireless card, although it more resembles a USB storage stick with a very tiny reset button on the side. I'm guessing that when I originally unplugged the mains supply before removing the battery, the stick switched off and needed resetting. Once I had done that, the rest was easy.

    However, I still have the bleeping, and the computer still keeps switching off after a couple of seconds, but pressing the ON button each time it shuts off eventually gets the computer going again.
    If it's not the button battery (I substituted the original for another well used one) then I'm at a loss. The regular beep beep beep probably does indicate a fault condition, the question is: where?

    Thanks to you and all who kindly responded to my op. D :)
  • seacamseacam Posts: 21,364
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    shhftw wrote: »
    Absolutely WPA/2 is what I meant to write.
  • TassiumTassium Posts: 31,639
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    If you state the exact make/model then what the beeps mean might be possible to discover.
  • Fish_and_ChipsFish_and_Chips Posts: 1,333
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    Usually beeps are standard checks/errors on windows pc's you could open up the PC agin and check nothing is loose or could find out online what the beeps mean.
  • seacamseacam Posts: 21,364
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    Dunnroamin wrote: »
    I would say you were almost bang on the nail in your diagnosis. I have now solved the problem (well, almost), it was what I guess you call a wireless card, although it more resembles a USB storage stick with a very tiny reset button on the side. I'm guessing that when I originally unplugged the mains supply before removing the battery, the stick switched off and needed resetting. Once I had done that, the rest was easy.

    However, I still have the bleeping, and the computer still keeps switching off after a couple of seconds, but pressing the ON button each time it shuts off eventually gets the computer going again.
    If it's not the button battery (I substituted the original for another well used one) then I'm at a loss. The regular beep beep beep probably does indicate a fault condition, the question is: where?

    Thanks to you and all who kindly responded to my op. D :)
    After my crap mistake about WPS, I'm assuming the battery you are talking about is the CMOS.

    I'm also assuming, unless your MB is jumperless, you reset the CMOS jumper pins.
  • DunnroaminDunnroamin Posts: 2,437
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    seacam wrote: »
    After my crap mistake about WPS, I'm assuming the battery you are talking about is the CMOS.

    I'm also assuming, unless your MB is jumperless, you reset the CMOS jumper pins.

    I've not knowingly changed anything. Every setting is the same as before the machine started switching off automatically (that's the fault condition I mentioned). All I did was to remove the coin shaped lithium battery and replace it with one from another redundant pc. Today (15 Oct), the computer is failing to remain switched on for more than a couple of seconds. When I push the ON button a couple of times, I manage to get it started, with the sound of a fan whirring but, after a few seconds, with yellow lights on the disc drive trays flashing, it goes dead. There is a small button just above the On button with a symbol that looks like a bow tie or butterfly, which I assume may be a reset button. Holding this in whilst switching on, initially seemed to keep things going for a bit longer (30 secs or so), but now, even that doesn't do the trick.
  • chrisjrchrisjr Posts: 33,282
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    Dunnroamin wrote: »
    I've not knowingly changed anything. Every setting is the same as before the machine started switching off automatically (that's the fault condition I mentioned). All I did was to remove the coin shaped lithium battery and replace it with one from another redundant pc. Today (15 Oct), the computer is failing to remain switched on for more than a couple of seconds. When I push the ON button a couple of times, I manage to get it started, with the sound of a fan whirring but, after a few seconds, with yellow lights on the disc drive trays flashing, it goes dead. There is a small button just above the On button with a symbol that looks like a bow tie or butterfly, which I assume may be a reset button. Holding this in whilst switching on, initially seemed to keep things going for a bit longer (30 secs or so), but now, even that doesn't do the trick.

    The coin cell battery you removed is power back-up for the BIOS in the computer. This is the bit that boots up the machine when you turn it on and also tells Windows what hardware the machine has on board. If the battery is dead or removed the BIOS may reset to some default state or even become corrupted.

    When you power up the machine you should see a simple text screen perhaps with a manufacturers logo before Windows begins to load. If you get this screen look for a line saying something like "Press Del for setup" It may say some other key such as F2. Press whatever key is shown while that screen is displayed and you should get into the BIOS screen.

    Look for an option to "Reset to Default" or "Load Default settings" and select that. This should load a set of basic settings that should be sufficient to operate the machine normally. If the BIOS had become corrupt, preventing the machine booting normally, it should also sort that out. Just follow any on screen prompts to apply the settings.

    Don't make any other changes or at least if you do do not choose the option to save any changes. Usually pressing the Esc key gets you out, though it may show an alternative along the bottom of the screen to exit the BIOS set-up. Again exit without saving if you didn't manage to do a reset.

    If you can't even get into the BIOS or you never even see the boot up text screen before the machine dies then you might have a faulty power supply. Or there is some fault with the motherboard. When you took the lid off you may have disturbed something that is now making it fail to boot.
  • max99max99 Posts: 9,002
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    As asked for above, you need to tell us the make and model of the PC. This can help identify the beep codes. Also describe the beeps exactly - constant beeping; five identical beeps; one long, two short, etc, etc?
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