Shed insulating
I have recently purchased a 10x8 ft garden shed.
It need insulating, i've been looking on what is best but frankly it confuses me.
Looking for people's opinion on quickest, safest, easiest and more importantly good value for money.
Would the polystyrene be better, or the loft insulating stuff on a roll?
It is to be used as a gaming place/doss pit for my adult boys, so need to be snug and warm, also waterproof/damp proofed.
Thanks
It need insulating, i've been looking on what is best but frankly it confuses me.
Looking for people's opinion on quickest, safest, easiest and more importantly good value for money.
Would the polystyrene be better, or the loft insulating stuff on a roll?
It is to be used as a gaming place/doss pit for my adult boys, so need to be snug and warm, also waterproof/damp proofed.
Thanks
0
Comments
Could you post a photo of the shed or style of shed you have purchased?
These are its stats:
Building: Pent
Cladding : Premier 18mm
Shed Layout: Apex E
Delivery: Green Zone - FREE Delivery
Door Option: 5 Foot Double Doors Required
Installation: Installation Required
Plastic Shelving Unit: Not Required
Bearers: Bearers Required
Heavy Duty 3/4 Flooring: Required
Edit forgot the link: http://www.taylorsgardenbuildings.co.uk/store/customer/product.php?productid=18364
With loft insulation you'd have to net it or board it.
Whatever you get, make sure it is fire rated.
Electric for safety, I suggest.
Outbuilding electrics are notifiable mind....
https://www.google.co.uk/search?pws=0&gl=uk&q=shed+electric+notifiable&gws_rd=ssl
Why are boards better than rolls of the stuff?
And I presume it would be fine to staple the boards if that is chose?
The floor is off the ground, the floor it about 6 inches off the floor with its own base so hopefully rot will not be a issue there.
The drawback is the glass dust and the fact that spiders and ants get into the fibreglass and make nests, causing much damage.
I suppose you'll be boarding out no matter what, as it's intended to be a useable room, but in a small shed keeping the wall thickness down will be a bonus.
You know hardboard is flammable, particularly for surface spread... which is where the flame propagates very quickly across the walls and ceiling, and gets to the door area before you have even realised it's getting more serious than you thought?
Just saying, like.
Shed will still be freezing in winter though!
Note on outside electrics:
Glad the OP has had an approved sparky in to do it.
If you ever get random RCD tripping, in the house, during a rainy period always isolate and check outside sockets and lamps before checking main house for leaks or faulty appliances etc.
I have had two such independent faults, 2 years apart. One a leaking outside socket on the conservatory and the other a lamp housing that sprang open.
It saved me having to fault find the main house thank God.
You have had some great advice by others so have held off giving my 2 penny worth but I’m gonna rain down on their parade and yours a little.
It’s a great shed you purchased and it is better built then many but you have to remember it is a shed and not really purpose built to be rain/wind proof or used for what you want to use it for.
And there lays the issue and why I would advise you not to spend a lot of money trying to make it something it can’t be for several reasons.
If you are using a feather edge or ship lap shed, no matter how well built other then for storage, you will cause issues with damp and condensation.
For these kind of sheds to last they need to breathe internally, there needs to be flow of air to all parts of the internal structure.
Not matter what insulation you use and how much you use you are not going to get much insulation value out of 2 inch thickness, Robin has touched on this.
If you add insulation and the boys are using it as a doss room/games room you will need to use an extractor fan, if you use an extractor fan you will loose heat., so there is a balancing act to be done.
My advise would be to forgo the insulation altogether, as the floor will be the coldest area, add a carpet, not foam back, ( no under felt ), or a large mat but not rubber backed and put a fan heater or oil filled radiator in there and that’s it.
The shed will soon warm up it won’t loose that much heat but it will loose it.
Cut a couple of closable grill vents into the front and back of shed or sides.
If you still want to insulate, I’m going to go in the other direction then most others would advise,
I would suggest using loft roll insulation in this instance between the shed rafters and shed studs, then I would use 9.5, ( Duplex ), foil back plaster board for both the apex and the walls.
While PUR board would generally be the way to go and if there was any future water ingress, would stand up much better,--- by using solid you are not allowing the roof or wall space to breath and there is a good chance the support timbers will rot,---eventually.
By using roll insulation, it’s going to be more breathable, not a lot but better, thus better for the apex and wall voids.
Using rolled however has it’s draw backs such as it doesn’t stand up to water ingress at all well, you may get nesting and so on and has been stated by Supratad, not as good in insulation properties as PUR.
But if you are going to fill voids you need to try and facilitate as much air movement as you can to avoid condensation and damp.
I would have recommended 10 inches off the base but if 6 inches is what you got, it’s better then 4 inches.
If possible I would add guttering all round and make sure you treat the shiplap as required.
Should you forgo the Duplex board, which would help retain heat, go for PUR insulation, cut to size and fit with an ordinary timber saw and/or use dabs of quick grip or no nails or even cheap silicone to keep it in place if need be.
Should you ever replace your shed in the future I would recommend Loglap which is both wind and rainproof and makes an ideal workshop/chill/games room or sleep area with some extra home comforts fitted.
Good Luck.
I suggested (and others) Celotex because you could get away without boarding.
Ventilation is an issue but maybe the eaves would do it and badly fitting doors (as they always are).
But the place is never gonna be warm unless copious amounts of heat are provided.
And if burning fuel, Carbon Monoxide is a worry. Best keep to electric. Expensive.
And perhaps the shed isn't really big enough for a games room? And you should see the cobwebs and spiders in my shed. Awful.
I'd use a brick/block/concrete double(?) garage in preference. Still cold mind.
Put all the garage crap in the shed and car on driveway and use the garage as extra room. (if you have a garage and could do that)
Don't get me wrong there are some excellent built timber sheds out there to be used for all sorts of reasons.
I agree with you OP should stick to electric heating, fan heater, Dimplex Rad' or even some tube heaters.
Block, brick, concrete is always the best build for sheds/garages if budget allows.
Ist week in September we are erecting a 45x26x10 pre-fab, interlocking, sectional concrete work shop for a client on to an existing base.
They go up so quickly, we have allowed no more the 5 days to be fully functionally, including electrics and plumbing.
I think more people should consider these concrete prefabs, they last forever and designs and finishes are just great and have the added advantage of being weather proof.
There is this argument it's cheaper to build, well possibly but standard garden sizes or garages go up in a day or two max and for the extra few hundred quid if budget allows, you can just about use or do anything with them and with some internal work, insulate, ventilate and keep them warm.
And you are right, if the OP has a garage, change that in to a room and the garage for storage.
We ended up purchasing lagging (loft kind) and the boarding onto put over the top. And we already have a electric radiator for it (just hope it doesn't eat at the electricity!)
Also need to sort out door insulation ( well its brought but awaiting OH to have a day off to fit it)
The shed is plenty big enough for a games room, atm it has a 3ft 6 bed, chest of drawers and treadmill and a 6ft desk for one of the pc's.
My son's been sleeping in it since we got it but has decided he prefers his bedroom to the shed as its obviously warmer than the shed is right now heh, so that will be taken back upstairs soon.
With the bed and chest of drawers gone, there is the space for my other son to put his pc desk and their tv for the games console on its stand. Easy done!
You know you could get 6 immigrants in there at £300pcm each? :-)