I'm having a bit of an issue with my toilet flush. The flush does work but water doesn't come out of one section of the pan. One corner, taking up about 25% of the pan, has no water flowing out of it.
I'm having a bit of an issue with my toilet flush. The flush does work but water doesn't come out of one section of the pan. One corner, taking up about 25% of the pan, has no water flowing out of it.
Does anyone know how I can fix it?
Hi,
Hmmm, how to fix this one ?
Presumably it's not always been like this.
If not it suggests a blockage, possibly lime scale build up or the rubber doughnut if a close coupled pan, is disintegrating and bits blocking the rim.
I suppose the simplest method if lime scale would be a lime scale remover product but out of a bottle that can be turned up side down to get under the rim and squeezed, so something like this.
Get as much under the rim as you can, don't flush the toilet for a hour or so, let remover do it's work, you may need to repeat process several times.
You could squeeze a good amount into cistern over several attempts and flush, see if that works, let and hour or so pass between flushes.
The less water in the cistern, the less dilution of remover, if you can flush but stop cistern from filling to its level with each attempt.
If above doesn't do it, time for a heavier approach but try above first, come back to your thread and I'll suggest something else.
I used one of those right-angled screwdrivers of the type you sometimes get in crackers. Just feel for the outlet holes and give them all a good scrape to free the limescale.
I'm having a bit of an issue with my toilet flush. The flush does work but water doesn't come out of one section of the pan. One corner, taking up about 25% of the pan, has no water flowing out of it.
Does anyone know how I can fix it?
Following on from my first post and the heavier approach I mentioned, it's been touched on by Peter.
If you have a flapper type syphon or other flush system with a built in overflow, pour a bottle of Spirit of Salts down the overflow outlet, don't flush for an hour and before doing so get to work with a toilet brush under the rim, wear gloves and avoid splashing you, you might need to repeat.
NOTE BE VERY CAREFULL WHEN USING NEAT SPIRT OF SALTS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, OPEN A WINDOW AND HOLD YOUR BREATH WHILE POURING, LEAVE BATHROOM QUICKLY, PETS IN ANOTHER ROOM.
If you don't have a built in overflow, be yours a close coupled or low level cistern, first isolate cistern from filling and disconnect filling valve and any overflow.
Then remove cistern from wall or pan but If low level leave down pipe attached to pan, if close couple arm yourself with a replacement close couple doughnut or the complete kit.
Pour neat Spirit of Salts down the down pipe or if close coupled, into pan inlet, don't flush for an hour and before doing so get to work with a toilet brush under the rim, wear gloves and avoid splashing you, you might need to repeat.
The issue with the above solution is there is no flush to help circulate the descale, you may need to pour a small amount of water in to pan inlets.
BE CAREFULL USING SPIRIT OF SALTS , IT CREATES FUMES THAT ARE UNPLESENT
The other issue with the above is as you have no flush you have no way of knowing if your attempts have worked, it's trial and error.
Hopefully you have a built in overflow or use a descale with the aid of a brush under the rim.
Nearly neat Spirit of Salts is available from any good hardware store.
The above is an extreme solution don't undertake it lightly,
When I was an apprentice we used spirit of salts, aka hydrochloric acid, to burn off galvanised plating prior to soldering.
The vapour given off when soldering gets into the back of your throat, and is quite difficult to shift. Strange the things you remember from one's youth.
If there are any metal components involved, avoid.
When I was an apprentice we used spirit of salts, aka hydrochloric acid, to burn off galvanised plating prior to soldering.
The vapour given off when soldering gets into the back of your throat, and is quite difficult to shift. Strange the things you remember from one's youth.
If there are any metal components involved, avoid.
It is very dangerous stuff to play with.
Yes it's ferocious stuff and no friend to lime scale, galvanised plating, lungs or hairs in your nostrils, had me gaging a few times when fumes caught me.
And I can never remember if it's more reactive adding to water or the other way around?
Just passing by but thought I'd post my admiration of some seriously knowledgeable and helpful posters here who have made me appreciate my fully-working flush, vow not to take it for granted and indeed view it in a new light.
I've taken on board what's been said and I don't think it's limescale. Water is flushing out of three quarters of the toilet, but one quarter is waterless.
I have a feeling a toilet block I put down there a few weeks ago might have something to do with it.
I've taken on board what's been said and I don't think it's limescale. Water is flushing out of three quarters of the toilet, but one quarter is waterless.
I have a feeling a toilet block I put down there a few weeks ago might have something to do with it.
Use A mirror to look up under the Pan Flushing Rim, Poke out all the holes or slots with appropiate size knitting needle. Don't use those "Blue" blocks inside Cisterns. If you do eventually have to remove cistern from pan, get a Plumber in to do it, It can be a difficult procedure and not to be undertaken by an unskilled DIY person.
It was never one of my favourite jobs and I have done a lot in my time.:).
I put one of those 'blue loo' circular things in the cistern a couple of weeks ago. Could that have caused a problem?
A cistern from flushing properly, yes it could---- and that would have been a useful bit of information to have earlier.
The issue you have now is if the block or part of has got into the rim and no flush water getting to it, it won't dissolve or it will take a very long time.
So a mirror and bent clothes wire as barbeler suggested might do it or a knitting needle.
If not you might want to get your toilet brush and every day for a while splosh plenty of water under the rim of affected area that might get enough water up there to help the dissolving action.
Removing and refitting a cistern from a wall is not a skilled job but if your inexperienced or not confident, employ a plumber or a decent DIYer/handyman.
That made me smile, I was once asked to fix a leak, a cistern in a student let house.
When I lifted the lid there was a loo block, outer wrapping and all,---bless.
I have seen blocks that look as if they have a wrapping, but it's not, being an outer coating that eventually disolves. Which can cause confusion, and was why I asked the question.
If the problem began after the block was put in the cistern, maybe it's crumbled, but I would have thought the debri would have disolved due to the constant flow of water above it. Never can be sure I guess - could be a manufacturing blip.
A steamer should shift it if the OP can get hold of one.
The brushes with a secondary rim brush, as they sell in Lidl's work well - typical German efficiency, even when it comes to cleaning a toilet.
The advice about pouring hot water into the cistern and flushing it a few times worked. A huge blob came out after a while which was the toilet block I put in the cistern a few weeks ago. It's been fine ever since.
Yes it's ferocious stuff and no friend to lime scale, galvanised plating, lungs or hairs in your nostrils, had me gaging a few times when fumes caught me.
And I can never remember if it's more reactive adding to water or the other way around?
Comments
Hmmm, how to fix this one ?
Presumably it's not always been like this.
If not it suggests a blockage, possibly lime scale build up or the rubber doughnut if a close coupled pan, is disintegrating and bits blocking the rim.
I suppose the simplest method if lime scale would be a lime scale remover product but out of a bottle that can be turned up side down to get under the rim and squeezed, so something like this.
Get as much under the rim as you can, don't flush the toilet for a hour or so, let remover do it's work, you may need to repeat process several times.
You could squeeze a good amount into cistern over several attempts and flush, see if that works, let and hour or so pass between flushes.
The less water in the cistern, the less dilution of remover, if you can flush but stop cistern from filling to its level with each attempt.
If above doesn't do it, time for a heavier approach but try above first, come back to your thread and I'll suggest something else.
Also, if you have the kind of overflow that feeds water back into the pan, you could try pouring some neat descaler down it.
A more conservative approach would be to put some anti-limscale blocks into the cistern, which might do the trick over a longer period of time.
From time to time Lidl's sell toilet brushes that have an extra brush pointing upwards for cleaning up under the rim, might pay to get one.
I agree with the limescale cleaner, possibly even some drain cleaner but empty the cistern first. also a damn good scrub under the rim
If it's a siphon flush, it will need some water to create a flush.
I was thinking more about over dilution of drain cleaner
If you have a flapper type syphon or other flush system with a built in overflow, pour a bottle of Spirit of Salts down the overflow outlet, don't flush for an hour and before doing so get to work with a toilet brush under the rim, wear gloves and avoid splashing you, you might need to repeat.
NOTE BE VERY CAREFULL WHEN USING NEAT SPIRT OF SALTS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, OPEN A WINDOW AND HOLD YOUR BREATH WHILE POURING, LEAVE BATHROOM QUICKLY, PETS IN ANOTHER ROOM.
If you don't have a built in overflow, be yours a close coupled or low level cistern, first isolate cistern from filling and disconnect filling valve and any overflow.
Then remove cistern from wall or pan but If low level leave down pipe attached to pan, if close couple arm yourself with a replacement close couple doughnut or the complete kit.
Pour neat Spirit of Salts down the down pipe or if close coupled, into pan inlet, don't flush for an hour and before doing so get to work with a toilet brush under the rim, wear gloves and avoid splashing you, you might need to repeat.
The issue with the above solution is there is no flush to help circulate the descale, you may need to pour a small amount of water in to pan inlets.
BE CAREFULL USING SPIRIT OF SALTS , IT CREATES FUMES THAT ARE UNPLESENT
The other issue with the above is as you have no flush you have no way of knowing if your attempts have worked, it's trial and error.
Hopefully you have a built in overflow or use a descale with the aid of a brush under the rim.
Nearly neat Spirit of Salts is available from any good hardware store.
The above is an extreme solution don't undertake it lightly,
The vapour given off when soldering gets into the back of your throat, and is quite difficult to shift. Strange the things you remember from one's youth.
If there are any metal components involved, avoid.
It is very dangerous stuff to play with.
And I can never remember if it's more reactive adding to water or the other way around?
I've taken on board what's been said and I don't think it's limescale. Water is flushing out of three quarters of the toilet, but one quarter is waterless.
I have a feeling a toilet block I put down there a few weeks ago might have something to do with it.
I put one of those 'blue loo' circular things in the cistern a couple of weeks ago. Could that have caused a problem?
It was never one of my favourite jobs and I have done a lot in my time.:).
The issue you have now is if the block or part of has got into the rim and no flush water getting to it, it won't dissolve or it will take a very long time.
So a mirror and bent clothes wire as barbeler suggested might do it or a knitting needle.
If not you might want to get your toilet brush and every day for a while splosh plenty of water under the rim of affected area that might get enough water up there to help the dissolving action.
Removing and refitting a cistern from a wall is not a skilled job but if your inexperienced or not confident, employ a plumber or a decent DIYer/handyman.
Not being funny, but did you remove all wrapping around the block?
Also, was it intended to be placed in the cistern, or hung in the pan?
Try emptying the cistern and replacing with hot water (not boiling) up to the water line, and flush a couple of times.
Poking, and flushing with a descaler ... or, flushing with hotwater ... should do the trick.
Not a lot of point in removing the pan, unless it's to replace it.
Easy enough to remove and replace the pan if you need to - see You Tube for step by step details on how.
Pans with matching cisterns start at around 80 pounds.
But unless you're thinking of changing anyway, the one you have should clear with a bit of effort as above.
That made me smile, I was once asked to fix a leak, a cistern in a student let house.
When I lifted the lid there was a loo block, outer wrapping and all,---bless.
I have seen blocks that look as if they have a wrapping, but it's not, being an outer coating that eventually disolves. Which can cause confusion, and was why I asked the question.
If the problem began after the block was put in the cistern, maybe it's crumbled, but I would have thought the debri would have disolved due to the constant flow of water above it. Never can be sure I guess - could be a manufacturing blip.
A steamer should shift it if the OP can get hold of one.
The brushes with a secondary rim brush, as they sell in Lidl's work well - typical German efficiency, even when it comes to cleaning a toilet.
The advice about pouring hot water into the cistern and flushing it a few times worked. A huge blob came out after a while which was the toilet block I put in the cistern a few weeks ago. It's been fine ever since.
Cheers!
You always add acid to water.
Why has hot water worked quicker then cold water on the block thus shifting the blockage?