Yes, but that means not driving for another 5 and a half years. I already have a licence and don't want to spend even more money on booster lessons in 5 years time. I live a 40 minute drive from the city centre, and buses arent regular or cheap from where I am, and therefore I need to drive to work.
I've found insurance on the Yaris for £1255, which is the cheapest I've found on anything.
Did you do PassPlus by any chance? That gives you a 30% discount on insurance if memory serves me right.
Sorry - that didn't come out as planned. I was trying to say that a car with such a low mileage won't necessarily be a fantastic buy compared to one that's done regular mileage, it'll still be a 10 year old car but with a different set of potential problems.
Good luck with it though.
I agree with this 100%.
OP, don't be fooled by low mileage cars. I made that mistake and it cost me dearly.
Good luck with your choice of car whatever you decide.
Did you do PassPlus by any chance? That gives you a 30% discount on insurance if memory serves me right.
I haven't done it, I'll pop it into my quote compare thing and see how much difference it makes I only passed my driving in february and have been at uni, so haven't had chance if I'm honest! I know a few people it's made no difference to, and some it's increased quotes!
Without it, my cheapest is with Hastings, and is £1255.58
With it, my cheapest is also with Hastings, and is £1195.11
Therefore doing it saves me £60.47 over the year.
I've quickly looked at 5 driving schools near me, and pass plus costs an average of £140, so it wouldn't be worth it realistically.
I haven't done it, I'll pop it into my quote compare thing and see how much difference it makes I only passed my driving in february and have been at uni, so haven't had chance if I'm honest! I know a few people it's made no difference to, and some it's increased quotes!
Without it, my cheapest is with Hastings, and is £1255.58
With it, my cheapest is also with Hastings, and is £1195.11
Therefore doing it saves me £60.47 over the year.
I've quickly looked at 5 driving schools near me, and pass plus costs an average of £140, so it wouldn't be worth it realistically.
Try adding one of your parents as an additional driver as this can sometimes help the quote.
This is with my dad as a named driver.
My mum can only drive an auto, and this is a manual, so she can't be on it.
Always useful to have them as named driver as my dad used to borrow my car every time he needed one
We had a bad parking situation when I lived with them, a double drive but he was given a long wheelbase van by his works and wasn't allowed to drive it unless he was doing something for work, if he was heading out early and would be back before I needed it he would take mine
It's my friend's grandparent's car, so won't have been used for long trips or anything.
My grandparents are the same, they had a motability car, they've just got rid of it, it was 3 and had only done 2k!, as my grandma doesn't drive more than to the supermarket, and my grandad lost his licence as his eyesight is too bad.
It's my friend's grandparent's car, so won't have been used for long trips or anything.
My grandparents are the same, they had a motability car, they've just got rid of it, it was 3 and had only done 2k!, as my grandma doesn't drive more than to the supermarket, and my grandad lost his licence as his eyesight is too bad.
I'd just be worried about the exhaust etc if its only ever done short journeys, when was it MOT'd because it will have had an emissions test.
Also how the car would cope if you suddenly went faster than 60 in it, if it had never gone that fast in its last 10 years.
When buying an old car, you would be wise to start saving money now for a 'rainy day fund' for when things break/wear out.
It's suprising with your first car how quickly the repair bills can mount up (even seemingly small jobs can be expensive)
My car is an 05 plate (100,000 miles), I've had it for 3 years.
In that time it's had:-
6 new tyres (4 worn and 2 unrepairable punctures) - £350 ish
Rear wiring loom repair - £80 parts and labour
1 clutch pedal - £130 parts and labour + £40 for recovery (marooned at Tesco!)
1 interior door seal - £90 parts and labour
1 heater fan resistor - £80 parts and labour
Front wiper linkage - £200 parts and labour (i know i could have got this cheaper, but needed it doing that day!)
Servicing x3 - £360
Then petrol/insurance/tax on top of that.
Sadly, it's probably coming to the end of it's servicable life now as the future repair bills are mounting up.
Bell housing seal perished, occassional oil drip onto clutch plate causing slight slip, only going to get worse, gearbox off job/replace clutch, flywheel and seal - £400+ from cheapo backstreet garage
Clunking from front suspension - £???
Looking at trading it in before MOT (due july) so it can be someone elses problem.
Finally - anyone wanna buy a car? Mint condition, honest guv! lol
I'd just be worried about the exhaust etc if its only ever done short journeys, when was it MOT'd because it will have had an emissions test.
Also how the car would cope if you suddenly went faster than 60 in it, if it had never gone that fast in its last 10 years.
I bought a very low mileage car like the one the OP is considering. Once I started to drive it (it felt fine on the test drive) everything went wrong. I don't think it had ever been on a motorway in its life. It cost me a fortune to get through its first MOT, and then the clutch started slipping, and the wheel bearings were screaming. This was on a 3 year old Nissan with only 16k on the clock with FSH.
While the Yaris sounds great, just take on board what others have said. Has it ever got in 5th gear (do Yaris's have 5th gear?), has it ever gone over 40mph etc. Make sure your dad drives the car, not just you, he'll be able to spot things you won't notice. Make sure when you go to see the car, that the engine is cold and it starts ok from cold, take it for a spin and get it up to temp, make sure there's no smoke coming from the exhaust once warm. Ask you dad to check for white residue around the oil filler cap (sign of head casket going) an old, low mileage car can be as much of a pain as a newer high mileage car.
I bought a very low mileage car like the one the OP is considering. Once I started to drive it (it felt fine on the test drive) everything went wrong. I don't think it had ever been on a motorway in its life. It cost me a fortune to get through its first MOT, and then the clutch started slipping, and the wheel bearings were screaming. This was on a 3 year old Nissan with only 16k on the clock with FSH.
This. My fiesta only had 40k on it at 10 years old, I though bargain. It had been used as a run around and never been 'driven' as soon as I started to use it for more than a five min journey I started getting problems.
there is rust coming through on the back offside at the gap with the bumper and i can see that on a picture god knows what the underneath looks like and the rear wiper is missing and maybe wiper motor broke
id walk away and save up just a bit more and you will save the hassle on repairs, these ka's are prone to wishbones going but have an old design engine with overhead valves so no cam belt to worry about just very noisy ford valve tick
just take your time and take your dad with you and it doesn't feel right you can always walk away. there are loads of cars out there
there is rust coming through on the back offside at the gap with the bumper and i can see that on a picture god knows what the underneath looks like and the rear wiper is missing and maybe wiper motor broke
id walk away and save up just a bit more and you will save the hassle on repairs, these ka's are prone to wishbones going but have an old design engine with overhead valves so no cam belt to worry about just very noisy ford valve tick
just take your time and take your dad with you and it doesn't feel right you can always walk away. there are loads of cars out there
Be very careful with the Ford KA you can get into real trouble with corrosion on these.
You need to carefully check these places and items.....
Rust.....
Around the fuel filler door, inside and out.
Around the boot lid lock.
Around the bottom of the doors.
Around the top and bottom of both wings.
Around the sills, inside and out.
Around the rear wiper.
Under the floor at the driver's side, including the chassis members at both sides just under the footwell.
Check the power steering pipes for bad corrosion, very common and expensive problem.
Check for power steering fluid leaks, again, common and expensive. Check for noisy engines.
Look at the front brake discs.
Hopefully the car will be in great condition and all will be well
Can't comment on prices as I don't keep up with prices.
Just a small point on this in that the KA has a higher than usual engine noise level, so as they say they have a few in stock, try a few and compare them to each other as well as to other cars.
I bought a similar KA which is one year older, for £600, BUT it needed a new front windscreen which I haggled off the price. If it is in good working order mechanincally, then around £800 would be a reasonable amount to pay. I would only pay the full whack as advertised if it were immaculate and I couldn't find a better one.
If you can find a Yaris in a reasonable condition, I would go for it. A KA wasn't my first choice for a car, but I bought it with the specific expectation of it lasting a year - anything on top is a bonus.
Comments
I agree with this 100%.
OP, don't be fooled by low mileage cars. I made that mistake and it cost me dearly.
Good luck with your choice of car whatever you decide.
That was 2003 though
I haven't done it, I'll pop it into my quote compare thing and see how much difference it makes
Without it, my cheapest is with Hastings, and is £1255.58
With it, my cheapest is also with Hastings, and is £1195.11
Therefore doing it saves me £60.47 over the year.
I've quickly looked at 5 driving schools near me, and pass plus costs an average of £140, so it wouldn't be worth it realistically.
Similar here, passed in 03 at 24 and PassPlus wasn't worth the cost - I'd already notched up a years NCB.
I've never heard of anyone saving 30% on it...
It's a 53 plate, 20,000 mile Yaris I'm looking at now
Try adding one of your parents as an additional driver as this can sometimes help the quote.
Excellent car:)
This is with my dad as a named driver.
My mum can only drive an auto, and this is a manual, so she can't be on it.
Always useful to have them as named driver as my dad used to borrow my car every time he needed one
We had a bad parking situation when I lived with them, a double drive but he was given a long wheelbase van by his works and wasn't allowed to drive it unless he was doing something for work, if he was heading out early and would be back before I needed it he would take mine
A 10 year old car that's only done 20k?
Doesn't sound quite right to me
It's my friend's grandparent's car, so won't have been used for long trips or anything.
My grandparents are the same, they had a motability car, they've just got rid of it, it was 3 and had only done 2k!, as my grandma doesn't drive more than to the supermarket, and my grandad lost his licence as his eyesight is too bad.
I'd just be worried about the exhaust etc if its only ever done short journeys, when was it MOT'd because it will have had an emissions test.
Also how the car would cope if you suddenly went faster than 60 in it, if it had never gone that fast in its last 10 years.
It's suprising with your first car how quickly the repair bills can mount up (even seemingly small jobs can be expensive)
My car is an 05 plate (100,000 miles), I've had it for 3 years.
In that time it's had:-
6 new tyres (4 worn and 2 unrepairable punctures) - £350 ish
Rear wiring loom repair - £80 parts and labour
1 clutch pedal - £130 parts and labour + £40 for recovery (marooned at Tesco!)
1 interior door seal - £90 parts and labour
1 heater fan resistor - £80 parts and labour
Front wiper linkage - £200 parts and labour (i know i could have got this cheaper, but needed it doing that day!)
Servicing x3 - £360
Then petrol/insurance/tax on top of that.
Sadly, it's probably coming to the end of it's servicable life now as the future repair bills are mounting up.
Bell housing seal perished, occassional oil drip onto clutch plate causing slight slip, only going to get worse, gearbox off job/replace clutch, flywheel and seal - £400+ from cheapo backstreet garage
Clunking from front suspension - £???
Looking at trading it in before MOT (due july) so it can be someone elses problem.
Finally - anyone wanna buy a car? Mint condition, honest guv! lol
I bought a very low mileage car like the one the OP is considering. Once I started to drive it (it felt fine on the test drive) everything went wrong. I don't think it had ever been on a motorway in its life. It cost me a fortune to get through its first MOT, and then the clutch started slipping, and the wheel bearings were screaming. This was on a 3 year old Nissan with only 16k on the clock with FSH.
This. My fiesta only had 40k on it at 10 years old, I though bargain. It had been used as a run around and never been 'driven' as soon as I started to use it for more than a five min journey I started getting problems.
id walk away and save up just a bit more and you will save the hassle on repairs, these ka's are prone to wishbones going but have an old design engine with overhead valves so no cam belt to worry about just very noisy ford valve tick
just take your time and take your dad with you and it doesn't feel right you can always walk away. there are loads of cars out there
The OP's moved on to looking at a Yaris
thank god for that jap is king
Just a small point on this in that the KA has a higher than usual engine noise level, so as they say they have a few in stock, try a few and compare them to each other as well as to other cars.
I bought a similar KA which is one year older, for £600, BUT it needed a new front windscreen which I haggled off the price. If it is in good working order mechanincally, then around £800 would be a reasonable amount to pay. I would only pay the full whack as advertised if it were immaculate and I couldn't find a better one.
If you can find a Yaris in a reasonable condition, I would go for it. A KA wasn't my first choice for a car, but I bought it with the specific expectation of it lasting a year - anything on top is a bonus.