Tips for removing rust from bathroom items

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• Welsh-lad Posts: 51,925

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  28/04/15 - 20:30 #2

  Difficult to get rid of rust, especially on something small and fiddly.
  
  Try white vinegar in the first instance.

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• seacam Posts: 21,364

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  28/04/15 - 20:56 #3

  Inspiration wrote: »

  I've noticed there is the beginnings of rust at the very bottom of my bathroom radiator which I suspect is just from general bathroom dampness over time. I've also some rust on the screws of the bathroom mirror and some that seems behind the mirror surface itself.
  
  Any tips on how to get rid, if it's even possible? I rent so i'm never happy to see these issues develop even if they probably fall under "wear and tear". I'd rather clean it off if I can so when I leave it's in a good condition.
  
  Any products out there that can help with this?
  
  Thanks.

  The quickest and most cost effective way of doing this, is to rub down rust with a sheet of wet&dry or if push comes to shove medium grade sand paper, get rid of all rust areas, wipe thoroughly, then touch up with white enamel or radiator paint.

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• oulandy Posts: 18,242

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  29/04/15 - 00:12 #4

  I use Kurust on radiators, washing machine etc. It's good...
  
  http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/cleaning-body-repair/rust-removal-treatment/hammerite-kurust-90ml

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• barbeler Posts: 23,827

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  29/04/15 - 00:29 #5

  oulandy wrote: »

  I use Kurust on radiators, washing machine etc. It's good...
  
  http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/cleaning-body-repair/rust-removal-treatment/hammerite-kurust-90ml

  I remember buying something similar to that many years ago. The stuff I bought was a jelly-like substance which was used on cars to convert cure small patches of rust and worked really well. I seem to remember that it turned the rust a blue-grey colour and certainly stabilised it very well. I'm sure it would be excellent for the bottoms of radiators, in fact I think I'll get some myself. You only have to remove the really flaky patches of rust before applying it.

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• [Deleted User] Posts: 1,954

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  29/04/15 - 11:17 #6

  oulandy wrote: »

  I use Kurust on radiators, washing machine etc. It's good...
  
  http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/cleaning-body-repair/rust-removal-treatment/hammerite-kurust-90ml

  Yes, you really need to use a product like this first then apply the white paint to the radiator.
  
  No good just painting on top of a surface that has just been rubbed down as it will rust again.

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• Isambard Brunel Posts: 6,598

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  29/04/15 - 15:58 #7

  For the radiators, you need to either use rust remover or a wire brush attachment on a drill to scratch right down to the base metal. Then repaint the whole thing in proper radiator paint. Then, repaint it every few years before the rust re-appears. This is a lot easier than doing the job once the rust or paint blistering appears.
  
  As for the mirrors, the 'rust' behind the mirror is probably the red paint they spray over the silver reflective layer to protect it. This means the silver reflective layer has rotted away and there's nothing you can do. It usually starts by water lingering around the edges of the glass, where the layers are exposed. This includes the insides of holes drilled through the mirror for screws.
  
  The screws were clearly steel, so you should replace them. Ideally, you'd use brass screws, but if they're the kind that allow you to screw in a cap, you may find it hard to get them not made from steel. At least replacing them will get rid of the existing rust and give you a few more years before it starts again.

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• seacam Posts: 21,364

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  30/04/15 - 00:04 #8

  Andrew-W wrote: »

  Yes, you really need to use a product like this first then apply the white paint to the radiator.
  
  No good just painting on top of a surface that has just been rubbed down as it will rust again.

  That is not what a rust converter does, there is little point in applying a rust converter if there is no rust left to convert.
  
  Rust converter doesn't prevent rust from forming again or spreading if the reason for that rust forming is not prevented.
  
  Rust converter comes into its own where you have a surface that has been damaged/eaten by rust. Rust converter can't penetrate painted rust, you have to get down to the rust and surrounding area before applying it.
  
  Rust converter is good for 1st-2nd layer bare rust or if you can soak the item in the converter otherwise further layers will keep eating away.
  
  There is no harm in applying a metal primer to bare metal before top coat and is the best method but as the rad' has been rubbed down there will be enough key for a light coat of rad' paint and then a further top coat if required.
  
  Rust converter is best used where the intention or inability to rub down is not going to happen, where the finished surface is not so important.

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• Hut27 Posts: 1,673

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  01/05/15 - 07:59 #9

  Rust on Rads in bathrooms is usually caused by Urine splashes, Never site a Radiator close to the Toilet. I used to do Maintenance On thousands of Council Houses and saw this all the time.

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• [Deleted User] Posts: 1,954

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  01/05/15 - 10:55 #10

  seacam wrote: »

  That is not what a rust converter does, there is little point in applying a rust converter if there is no rust left to convert.
  
  Rust converter doesn't prevent rust from forming again or spreading if the reason for that rust forming is not prevented.
  
  Rust converter comes into its own where you have a surface that has been damaged/eaten by rust. Rust converter can't penetrate painted rust, you have to get down to the rust and surrounding area before applying it.
  
  Rust converter is good for 1st-2nd layer bare rust or if you can soak the item in the converter otherwise further layers will keep eating away.
  
  There is no harm in applying a metal primer to bare metal before top coat and is the best method but as the rad' has been rubbed down there will be enough key for a light coat of rad' paint and then a further top coat if required.
  
  Rust converter is best used where the intention or inability to rub down is not going to happen, where the finished surface is not so important.

  
  I know exactly waht a rust converter does.
  
  It's likely that if someone rubs down the radiator they may not remove all of the rust especially if it is pitted. So use the rust converter first and then apply the normal paint.
  
  The rust converter is very thin when it dries and you won't have any problem at all producing a smooth finish with the paint applied on top.

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• seacam Posts: 21,364

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  01/05/15 - 20:58 #11

  Andrew-W wrote: »

  I know exactly waht a rust converter does.
  
  It's likely that if someone rubs down the radiator they may not remove all of the rust especially if it is pitted. So use the rust converter first and then apply the normal paint.
  
  The rust converter is very thin when it dries and you won't have any problem at all producing a smooth finish with the paint applied on top.

  Then you will know I wrote " Rust converter comes into its own where you have a surface that has been damaged/eaten by rust".
  
  You will always have a problem obtaining a smooth finish, use of rust converter or not where the metal has been damaged/eaten/pitted by rust regardless of the paint finish.

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• Delta2113 Posts: 2,292

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  25/08/15 - 20:02 #12

  Should you use Rust Converter and a Primer?
  
  I have a radiator right next to the toilet and on the middle section the paint has all cracked and you can see rust - obviously urine doing the damage.

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