Home› Advice
Options

Central heating problem

mike1948mike1948 Posts: 2,157
Forum Member
✭✭✭
in Advice #1
I have gas central heating controlled by an analogue timeswitch.

I noticed yesterday that the radiators were on and hot when the control switch on the timer indicated it was set to heat hot water only (ie not the radiators).

My first thought was that the timeswitch may be faulty. Could there be some other fault, like a valve somewhere remaining open or closed?

Comments

  • Options
    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 8,415
    Forum Member
    ✭
    #2
    3 way valve faulty , there should be a manual lever on it so you can switch the heating off , hopefully it should be just the head that needs renewing and not the full valve so you wont need to get into the water side and drain down the system :)
  • Options
    mike1948mike1948 Posts: 2,157
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    #3
    paulyoung666 wrote: »
    3 way valve faulty , there should be a manual lever on it so you can switch the heating off , hopefully it should be just the head that needs renewing and not the full valve so you wont need to get into the water side and drain down the system :)

    Thanks very much for your help.
  • Options
    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 1,065
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    #4
    Your system may not have a 3-port valve. It may be a pair of 2 port valves, one for the heating one for the hot water.

    It could be that the motor has jammed open, or it could be the valve body is passing water through.
  • Options
    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 8,415
    Forum Member
    ✭
    #5
    Andykel wrote: »
    Your system may not have a 3-port valve. It may be a pair of 2 port valves, one for the heating one for the hot water.

    It could be that the motor has jammed open, or it could be the valve body is passing water through.

    with a bit of luck it will be an electrical problem , easier than messing with the water side , especially if isolation valves have not been fitted , like mine :(
  • Options
    mike1948mike1948 Posts: 2,157
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    #6
    My valve is a BGMVSP-23. The valve is three-way with the pump nearby.
  • Options
    crazychris12crazychris12 Posts: 26,254
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    #7
    Not sure for you but that's usually the diverter valve.
  • Options
    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 1,065
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    #8
    mike1948 wrote: »
    My valve is a BGMVSP-23. The valve is three-way with the pump nearby.

    Does the head disconnect? There should be a little black bit on the opposite side to the setting indicator that you can push in and it allows you to pop the head off. A standard ACL 5-wire mid-pos head should fit the valve.
  • Options
    mike1948mike1948 Posts: 2,157
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    #9
    Andykel wrote: »
    Does the head disconnect? There should be a little black bit on the opposite side to the setting indicator that you can push in and it allows you to pop the head off. A standard ACL 5-wire mid-pos head should fit the valve.

    Yes it does disconnect like that. I'll buy another tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
  • Options
    seacamseacam Posts: 21,364
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    #10
    mike1948 wrote: »
    Yes it does disconnect like that. I'll buy another tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
    So long as it is not a stat' or time lock issue, a couple of shots of oil or WD 40 on the valve spindle might sort things, turn power off to boiler first.

    If it is valve and it needs replacing, ascertain your system isn't full of sludge,---- would be a good time to resolve this if it is.

    ACL Drayton MAI/679-3 or Honneywell V4073A is the straight forward replacements.
  • Options
    mike1948mike1948 Posts: 2,157
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    #11
    seacam wrote: »
    So long as it is not a stat' or time lock issue, a couple of shots of oil or WD 40 on the valve spindle might sort things, turn power off to boiler first.

    If it is valve and it needs replacing, ascertain your system isn't full of sludge,---- would be a good time to resolve this if it is.

    ACL Drayton MAI/679-3 or Honneywell V4073A is the straight forward replacements.

    I moved the lever on the side to turn it off manually but it seemed rather stiff. Is that usual?

    I assume you have Screwfix's catalogue. Would the Drayton Synchronous Motor be a sensible first buy, since it is less that £14?
  • Options
    seacamseacam Posts: 21,364
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    #12
    mike1948 wrote: »
    I moved the lever on the side to turn it off manually but it seemed rather stiff. Is that usual?

    I assume you have Screwfix's catalogue. Would the Drayton Synchronous Motor be a sensible first buy, since it is less that £14?
    The motor works very hard, so eventually they do fail.

    In my experience, replacing the motor works only if you have or ensure your system is as clean as you can get it when undertaking this repair.
  • Options
    mike1948mike1948 Posts: 2,157
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    #13
    Update: I took a gamble and bought a new motor. It seems to have done the trick. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice. If it fails again I will have to get the gunge removed from the system.
  • Options
    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 8,415
    Forum Member
    ✭
    #14
    mike1948 wrote: »
    Update: I took a gamble and bought a new motor. It seems to have done the trick. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice. If it fails again I will have to get the gunge removed from the system.

    i would suggest a pre emptive strike on the gunge , cheaper than a new boiler :eek:
Sign In or Register to comment.