Specific shower advice - Mira Divisa

Dan SetteDan Sette Posts: 5,816
Forum Member
Hi all. (and especially Seacam / plumbers)

Finally, the shower in the shower room has given up the ghost. (The shower itself is fine, but the shower tray and cabinet leaks so badly that the floor has been affected)

Which is actually good news, the whole thing (along with basin and WC) is in avocado including the tiles.

Time for a full upgrade. Although I will be getting a professional in to do the job - I am a DIY incompetent - I'd like to get some ideas first.

I've decided as it is all going to be ripped out, and as the space is fairly limited I'm going to have a wet room. There is plenty of info out there, including tanking, what you need etc. However. Two things have come to mind before I start getting quotes.

The house is electricity only

Firstly, changing the shower unit itself. I'm restricted to an electric shower, I really don't want to change the hot water tank (thermostatically heated) and the existing tank creates sufficient hot water for my needs, but would run out of steam when I have guests so a mixer shower is out of the question. Not least heating the extra water for the 90% of time when only I am there.

I like the idea of a Mira Divisa shower as it has the overhead fixed "drench" shower head as well as a conventional shower head on a flexible hose. Does anyone have one of these, does it give a fair flow of water, are there any pitfalls to look out for, or any reasonable alternatives.

Secondly, what are the alternatives to tiles on a wet room floor. I have been told that vinyl is viable, but to my mind sounds slippery. Can anyone point me to any sites that have examples that they have found works?

Thanks

Comments

  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 8,415
    Forum Member
    a site for you to peruse and ask advice

    http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/

    very helpful and friendly :)

    cant help with the shower though :D
  • camercamer Posts: 5,237
    Forum Member
    The mira divisa is an electrically heated shower so can be installed, you will need to have your electrical supply checked as this shower is around 10 kw consumption and your existing wiring and circuit protection might not be up to standard, this would be a job of an electrician and not a plumber.
  • seacamseacam Posts: 21,364
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    Hi Dan,

    Do you have a pace maker fitted, while you might ponder why I have asked you that question, I shall continue. :)

    You have done your research on what's required so I won' got there, vinyl is viable,----tile the floor.

    However, if the floor has been rot affected via the old bathroom installation, the floor joists may/will need attention, please don't turn a blind eye to this, investigate, treat for rot, replace or run along side any new joists required or boards.

    From there on it's a relatively straight forward job for your installer/fitter.

    Electrical requirements.

    New bathroom you must have adequate timed extraction unit fitted.

    Shower unit its self,---- more on that later but as I would recommend the 9.5KW or better still the 10.8KW version, if not already in place you will require a wiring upgrade.

    A 30 mA RCD and a 40 or 45 amp fuse will be required so your consumer unit will/may need attention.

    Earth bonding to all pipes will be required.

    The shower pipe feed will require single check valve to prevent contamination,---I prefer double,---single will do fine and the shower unit it's self will require it's own isolation valve.

    Might be a good time if you wish to look at your bathroom lighting.

    The Mira Divisa is the only unit I can think of that has a fixed separate drench head, there must be other brands.

    Note, reason for pace maker question, this unit has magnets fitted in the unit body its self, if pace maker fitted apply your normal precautions or warn any one else that might use shower.

    :)

    EDIT, no reason why plumber can't do the electrics so long as he is qualified to do so.
  • camercamer Posts: 5,237
    Forum Member
    seacam wrote: »
    Hi Dan,

    Do you have a pace maker fitted, while you might ponder why I have asked you that question, I shall continue. :)

    You have done your research on what's required so I won' got there, vinyl is viable,----tile the floor.

    However, if the floor has been rot affected via the old bathroom installation, the floor joists may/will need attention, please don't turn a blind eye to this, investigate, treat for rot, replace or run along side any new joists required or boards.

    From there on it's a relatively straight forward job for your installer/fitter.

    Electrical requirements.

    New bathroom you must have adequate timed extraction unit fitted.

    Shower unit its self,---- more on that later but as I would recommend the 9.5KW or better still the 10.8KW version, if not already in place you will require a wiring upgrade.

    A 30 mA RCD and a 40 or 45 amp fuse will be required so your consumer unit will/may need attention.

    Earth bonding to all pipes will be required.

    The shower pipe feed will require single check valve to prevent contamination,---I prefer double,---single will do fine and the shower unit it's self will require it's own isolation valve.

    Might be a good time if you wish to look at your bathroom lighting.

    The Mira Divisa is the only unit I can think of that has a fixed separate drench head, there must be other brands.

    Note, reason for pace maker question, this unit has magnets fitted in the unit body its self, if pace maker fitted apply your normal precautions or warn any one else that might use shower.

    :)

    EDIT, no reason why plumber can't do the electrics so long as he is qualified to do so.

    A plumber will be unlikely to give an Inspection and testing certificate unless qualified to do so. Plumbers arent electricians as I have found on many occassions when they have replaced electric showers and just reconnected the old cable without realising that the new shower was a much higher load and that the supply cable was too light.

    additional earth bonding will only be required if the household electrical system is of the PME type.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 8,415
    Forum Member
    camer wrote: »
    A plumber will be unlikely to give an Inspection and testing certificate unless qualified to do so. Plumbers arent electricians as I have found on many occassions when they have replaced electric showers and just reconnected the old cable without realising that the new shower was a much higher load and that the supply cable was too light.

    surely that was your fault for not checking the plumber out first though ? , there is no reason at all that a plumber cannot do both tasks if suitably qualified is there :)
  • Dan SetteDan Sette Posts: 5,816
    Forum Member
    Thank you all for speedy and comprehensive answers.

    I'll be using a builder, who not only is highly recommended also happens to be an old family friend. He has mentioned the joists and will repair / replace as necessary. He is bringing in a plumber from his firm and the electrics will be subbied out.

    I understand the shower, if over 10kw, will need 10mm (or is it 20mm) cable and this will be checked. The wiring is relatively new, and there are circuit breakers - but I'll get that checked also. I'm not sure what power the shower is at present.

    I'll certainly look at the website - thank you Paul.

    Seacam - have you installed one of these Divisa units - did the flow from the overhead unit seem adequate?
  • camercamer Posts: 5,237
    Forum Member
    surely that was your fault for not checking the plumber out first though ? , there is no reason at all that a plumber cannot do both tasks if suitably qualified is there :)

    If a plumber is qualified to install a shower with all electrical connections and installation plus give out an inspection and testing certificate which he must do then he would also be a fully qualified electrican as well as a plumber, I have seen plumbers carry out electrical work before and most havent got a clue what they are doing, this concerns me as an electric shower is dangerous enough without unqualified people making electrical connections. The biggest problem i come across is plumbers changing a 7.2 kw shower with a 10 kw item and simply upgrading the circuit breaker and not the cable hence my concern, I was not being critical of anyone or any trade but safety is of the utmost importance.
  • seacamseacam Posts: 21,364
    Forum Member
    ✭✭✭
    Dan Sette wrote: »
    Thank you all for speedy and comprehensive answers.

    I'll be using a builder, who not only is highly recommended also happens to be an old family friend. He has mentioned the joists and will repair / replace as necessary. He is bringing in a plumber from his firm and the electrics will be subbied out.

    I understand the shower, if over 10kw, will need 10mm (or is it 20mm) cable and this will be checked. The wiring is relatively new, and there are circuit breakers - but I'll get that checked also. I'm not sure what power the shower is at present.

    I'll certainly look at the website - thank you Paul.

    Seacam - have you installed one of these Divisa units - did the flow from the overhead unit seem adequate?

    The four I have installed, no problems, not great but adequate, no complaints from the clients any way, had to replace a control knob on one, 18 months old but that is it.

    Dan, may I recommend you the 10.kW version, I have stood under 9.kW units and they are tepid to me.

    How ever I have heard people screeching using kW units.
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