Went in Sept 2012. It's expensive but no more thant any other major 'tourist city' I've been to. Transport on vaporetto is dirt cheap and saves your legs. You must visit a small wine shop called 'Schiavi' just behind the Academia vaporetto stop- time shop selling glasses of wine and freshly made 'Italian tapas snack food' -tiny bread concoctions topped with all sorts of meat, cheese, veg etc and all €1 each... Small glass vino €2 so couple of glasses and half a dozen eats for only €10 a head- best€10 I've ever spent in a European city! And unbelievably ice cream
Is very cheap-even in St Marks Square!
Lots of kiosk type
Places selling huge slices of fresh pizza for 2-3 € as well as cups of fresh fruit....gosh I want to go back!!!
Now that is a top tip!
Don't think ice cream will be on the agenda at New Year though.
Don't just use the boats for getting around - wander off into the back alleyways and explore. However do bear in mind they move the buildings around at night, because if you find a decent little restaurant somewhere, you will never find it the following day.
A good rule of thumb - the further you get from St Marks Square, the cheaper things become.
In winter, there is the Aqua Alto (or high water), which it tidal and leads to Venice being underwater.
Gondolas are pricey, but can be hired at various points around the place - again if you hire one away from St Marks it can work out much cheaper. Alternatively there are the Traghetto, which are Gondolas which cross the main canal for about I euro.
The glass on Murano - watching them blowing glass and making stuff is entertaining, however much of the stuff sold there is cheap imported tat.
You can stay cheaper in the Lido or Mestre which are adjacent to Venice, but you lose out for the convenience of being able to return at a whim to your hotel.
Doges palace - you can (or used to be able to) book ahead to avoid queues.
And contrary to popular belief, the place does not stink!
Don't just use the boats for getting around - wander off into the back alleyways and explore. However do bear in mind they move the buildings around at night, because if you find a decent little restaurant somewhere, you will never find it the following day.
A good rule of thumb - the further you get from St Marks Square, the cheaper things become.
In winter, there is the Aqua Alto (or high water), which it tidal and leads to Venice being underwater.
Gondolas are pricey, but can be hired at various points around the place - again if you hire one away from St Marks it can work out much cheaper. Alternatively there are the Traghetto, which are Gondolas which cross the main canal for about I euro.
The glass on Murano - watching them blowing glass and making stuff is entertaining, however much of the stuff sold there is cheap imported tat.
You can stay cheaper in the Lido or Mestre which are adjacent to Venice, but you lose out for the convenience of being able to return at a whim to your hotel.
Doges palace - you can (or used to be able to) book ahead to avoid queues.
And contrary to popular belief, the place does not stink!
I know its not everyones cup of tea but the Island isolo e San Michele, which is the Island cemetry is a beautiful place. Diagalevs tomb is there with lots of ballet shoes. Ezra Pound and Igor Stravinski are also there.
My sense of smell is poor anyway so won't be a problem.
I was there in September so I presume after a long hot summer the smell was at its worst . I was dissapointed in Venice , but I know others love it . I found it crowded , smelly and tacky in places .Too many allowed in at one time, cruise ships spilling out thousands on to the streets at one time .Tacky hoarding and advertisements in St Marks Sq looked awful .
It has its beauty but you have to find it among the crowds and the tack .The approach in the water taxi is lovely , the sight of St Marks coming into view and the views from the water are impressive .
I went in June and it just smelled of the sea, also it wasn't crowded. I don't think I'd have had the same experience in July, August or September, or during Carnivale.
The Gondola "industry" is riddled with corruption and in short you pretty much have to be born in to it. Also, if you're a woman you stand no chance.
I stayed with a friend who lived there in the heart of Venice and so we got to hear all the good and bad stuff about the city. Apparently it's a horrible place to live but it's a great place to visit if you are careful about when you go.
I was there in September so I presume after a long hot summer the smell was at its worst . I was dissapointed in Venice , but I know others love it . I found it crowded , smelly and tacky in places .Too many allowed in at one time, cruise ships spilling out thousands on to the streets at one time .Tacky hoarding and advertisements in St Marks Sq looked awful .
It has its beauty but you have to find it among the crowds and the tack .The approach in the water taxi is lovely , the sight of St Marks coming into view and the views from the water are impressive .
I agree with you. We were in Italy in September for my son's wedding on Lake Garda. Absolutely fell in love with the place. The little town where we stayed (Malcesine) was magical, so full of character, and all the Lake area is so beautiful. We also loved Verona and the old part of Bergamot. But for some reason, probably those you have listed above tbh, we were very disappointed with Venice.
I agree with you. We were in Italy in September for my son's wedding on Lake Garda. Absolutely fell in love with the place. The little town where we stayed (Malcesine) was magical, so full of character, and all the Lake area is so beautiful. We also loved Verona and the old part of Bergamot. But for some reason, probably those you have listed above tbh, we were very disappointed with Venice.
Oh agree about Lake Garda , we stayed up the road from you in Riva del Garda .I couldnt wait to get back after a day in Venice for the peace and beauty
I am glad I saw Venice but am in no hurry back again .I think they have ruined it with mass tourism and greed .
I go every New Year - great way to beat the post-Christmas misery. Weather has always been super sunny but cold.
Cicchetti bars are great. Went to the cemetery island for the first time this year and that's lovely on a nice day - all the graves have photos (some quite comical ones like a hubby and wife throttling each other).
Now for my area of expertise - food n booze.
I'll second Gia Schiavi (and the Dorsoduro seafront - Zattere - is a nice spot for an outdoor sunset spritz).
Muro bar by the Rialto fishmarket. Great atmos and great spritzes, very cheap for booze. On Saturdays around midday the owner does an Al Fresco dining thing in the square all year round - 8Euros for a big plate of fried seafood fresh from the market (the dishes vary) and a glass of prosecco. That was ace. Good spot for a drinky at night too.
Another good cicchetti bar spot is Luca e Fred - on the main street running from the train station to the centre. The Cannaregio area is lovely to walk around - lovely and peaceful when bustling elsewhere. Take a map whatever you do!
My fave bar has to be Osteria Da Baco - just beyond St. Mark's square. Amazing wine selection - their fragolino is just gorgeous - all are just over 2 Euros. Cosy but lively and full of locals. You can get there from along the waterfront between St Mark's and San Zaccaria. Take the left sidestreet 'Calle Rasse' and you're there.
Drink ~
prosecco
spritz (I like the Campari one but it's an acquired taste)
fragolino (strawberry-tasting grapes, slightly fizzy)
You'll get charged more if you wait for table service rather than go up to the bar - not really much in it though.
Did The Orient Express to Venice over 20 year ago now. Still remember the experience as if it was yesterday. The train and the scenery is just fabulous. If you are staying in an Orient Express booked hotel , then your transfer from train to hotel is just that little bit special...well it was when I went.
I arrived at 4pm local time and left approx 4pm on day 3 but still managed to fit in a Gondola ride (organised on booking holiday), St Mark's Sq & Bascilica, Dodges Palace and still had a few hours to shop . Enjoy the experience.
Ooh - thanks for this, I'm getting excited now! Your trip sounds wonderful and about the same amount of time, so great to hear first hand just how much you can squeeze in! I get torn between trying to relax and taking it all in, or doing lots, because that can make the time go too quickly! Talking of quick, it says we catch a speed launch to our hotel! I think I'll pretend to be a James Bond girl! lol
I go every New Year - great way to beat the post-Christmas misery. Weather has always been super sunny but cold.
Cicchetti bars are great. Went to the cemetery island for the first time this year and that's lovely on a nice day - all the graves have photos (some quite comical ones like a hubby and wife throttling each other).
Now for my area of expertise - food n booze.
I'll second Gia Schiavi (and the Dorsoduro seafront - Zattere - is a nice spot for an outdoor sunset spritz).
Muro bar by the Rialto fishmarket. Great atmos and great spritzes, very cheap for booze. On Saturdays around midday the owner does an Al Fresco dining thing in the square all year round - 8Euros for a big plate of fried seafood fresh from the market (the dishes vary) and a glass of prosecco. That was ace. Good spot for a drinky at night too.
Another good cicchetti bar spot is Luca e Fred - on the main street running from the train station to the centre. The Cannaregio area is lovely to walk around - lovely and peaceful when bustling elsewhere. Take a map whatever you do!
My fave bar has to be Osteria Da Baco - just beyond St. Mark's square. Amazing wine selection - their fragolino is just gorgeous - all are just over 2 Euros. Cosy but lively and full of locals. You can get there from along the waterfront between St Mark's and San Zaccaria. Take the left sidestreet 'Calle Rasse' and you're there.
Drink ~
prosecco
spritz (I like the Campari one but it's an acquired taste)
fragolino (strawberry-tasting grapes, slightly fizzy)
You'll get charged more if you wait for table service rather than go up to the bar - not really much in it though.
Nope - no flooding in my experience. It's always been very dry in jan when I've been. Think Feb - March is floody time but I think it happened in Autumn last year - either Oct or Nov. People were floating on lilos in their bikinis in St Mark's. I remember seeing it in the papers cos it was freezing here at the time.
Treat yourself to a water taxi back to the airport when you leave so you can just be chilled and relaxed and watch Venice retreating, you`ll promise yourself you`ll return.
Go on the Doge`s Palace "Secret" behind-the-scenes tour, it`s great.
DON`T drink cappucino after 11am!
Best advice I can give is to stay on the Lido. We stayed at the Hotel Belvedere, right opposite the quay for the water taxi, and 10 minutes by boat to St Marks - we paid a bit extra for a 'lagoon view' so we woke to the classic view of Venice each morning. You can also get there by boat direct from the airport without going to Venice first.
Prices on the Lido are half those in Venice - do all the tourist stuff in Venice by day, then back to Lido for the evening. We had full meals for 2 - pizza, side, drink for €20 or less for 2 people.
Treat yourself to a water taxi back to the airport when you leave so you can just be chilled and relaxed and watch Venice retreating, you`ll promise yourself you`ll return.
Go on the Doge`s Palace "Secret" behind-the-scenes tour, it`s great.
DON`T drink cappucino after 11am!
Yes - got the water taxi booked as the hotel has it's own landing stage.
Haha I wondered this Jules. This is a once in a lifetime trip, so I'll not only have coffee after 11, but I may run with scissors and have wine with my lunch too!
I'll be using Treviso airport on my next visit (20 miles inland). That'll be an interesting boat trip..............
Why not stay in Treviso? It's three miles from the airport, a very attractive town, with real Italian restaurants, not tourist traps. It has two or three trains an hour into Venice.
All the waiters, and any passing Italians, will laugh at you. Cappuchino is a breakfast drink.
Is that all? In that case I'll have my one daily coffee whatever time I like. Anyway I usually ask for a latte macchiato; perhaps different rules apply.
Go on the standing gondola that takes you across the grand canal very cheaply don't waste money on a cheesy gondola. If you are going to a few places a museum pass is worth buying.
If you want a quick cheap stand up lunch go to a bacareto that's where te locals go
Avoid San Marco at night it's packed and cheesy try places like campo San Barnaba it's where the students and locals go Venice apart from the tourist spots isn't really open that late. Grom sells lovely ice cream.
If you dont always fancy Italian food there is a kosher restaurant called gam gam which is great.
Go to the Peggy guggenheim. Wear good shoes be prepared to walk miles and get very lost. Even getting lost in Venice is amazing have fun. If you are only having a short break go to murano and Burano but don't other going to torcello as there isn't much there at all.
Comments
Now that is a top tip!
Don't think ice cream will be on the agenda at New Year though.
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187870-d1482772-Reviews-Cantinone_Gia_Schiavi-Venice_Veneto.html
Don't just use the boats for getting around - wander off into the back alleyways and explore. However do bear in mind they move the buildings around at night, because if you find a decent little restaurant somewhere, you will never find it the following day.
A good rule of thumb - the further you get from St Marks Square, the cheaper things become.
In winter, there is the Aqua Alto (or high water), which it tidal and leads to Venice being underwater.
Gondolas are pricey, but can be hired at various points around the place - again if you hire one away from St Marks it can work out much cheaper. Alternatively there are the Traghetto, which are Gondolas which cross the main canal for about I euro.
The glass on Murano - watching them blowing glass and making stuff is entertaining, however much of the stuff sold there is cheap imported tat.
You can stay cheaper in the Lido or Mestre which are adjacent to Venice, but you lose out for the convenience of being able to return at a whim to your hotel.
Doges palace - you can (or used to be able to) book ahead to avoid queues.
And contrary to popular belief, the place does not stink!
It sure stank when I was there .
My sense of smell is poor anyway so won't be a problem.
I was there in September so I presume after a long hot summer the smell was at its worst . I was dissapointed in Venice , but I know others love it . I found it crowded , smelly and tacky in places .Too many allowed in at one time, cruise ships spilling out thousands on to the streets at one time .Tacky hoarding and advertisements in St Marks Sq looked awful .
It has its beauty but you have to find it among the crowds and the tack .The approach in the water taxi is lovely , the sight of St Marks coming into view and the views from the water are impressive .
The Gondola "industry" is riddled with corruption and in short you pretty much have to be born in to it. Also, if you're a woman you stand no chance.
I stayed with a friend who lived there in the heart of Venice and so we got to hear all the good and bad stuff about the city. Apparently it's a horrible place to live but it's a great place to visit if you are careful about when you go.
I agree with you. We were in Italy in September for my son's wedding on Lake Garda. Absolutely fell in love with the place. The little town where we stayed (Malcesine) was magical, so full of character, and all the Lake area is so beautiful. We also loved Verona and the old part of Bergamot. But for some reason, probably those you have listed above tbh, we were very disappointed with Venice.
Oh agree about Lake Garda , we stayed up the road from you in Riva del Garda .I couldnt wait to get back after a day in Venice for the peace and beauty
I am glad I saw Venice but am in no hurry back again .I think they have ruined it with mass tourism and greed .
Cicchetti bars are great. Went to the cemetery island for the first time this year and that's lovely on a nice day - all the graves have photos (some quite comical ones like a hubby and wife throttling each other).
Now for my area of expertise - food n booze.
I'll second Gia Schiavi (and the Dorsoduro seafront - Zattere - is a nice spot for an outdoor sunset spritz).
Muro bar by the Rialto fishmarket. Great atmos and great spritzes, very cheap for booze. On Saturdays around midday the owner does an Al Fresco dining thing in the square all year round - 8Euros for a big plate of fried seafood fresh from the market (the dishes vary) and a glass of prosecco. That was ace. Good spot for a drinky at night too.
Another good cicchetti bar spot is Luca e Fred - on the main street running from the train station to the centre. The Cannaregio area is lovely to walk around - lovely and peaceful when bustling elsewhere. Take a map whatever you do!
My fave bar has to be Osteria Da Baco - just beyond St. Mark's square. Amazing wine selection - their fragolino is just gorgeous - all are just over 2 Euros. Cosy but lively and full of locals. You can get there from along the waterfront between St Mark's and San Zaccaria. Take the left sidestreet 'Calle Rasse' and you're there.
Drink ~
prosecco
spritz (I like the Campari one but it's an acquired taste)
fragolino (strawberry-tasting grapes, slightly fizzy)
You'll get charged more if you wait for table service rather than go up to the bar - not really much in it though.
Have an amazing time XXX
Ooh - thanks for this, I'm getting excited now! Your trip sounds wonderful and about the same amount of time, so great to hear first hand just how much you can squeeze in! I get torn between trying to relax and taking it all in, or doing lots, because that can make the time go too quickly! Talking of quick, it says we catch a speed launch to our hotel! I think I'll pretend to be a James Bond girl! lol
Some great advice there - thanks.
The 2 ladies are big Prosecco fans.
Does it routinely flood at New Year?
Go on the Doge`s Palace "Secret" behind-the-scenes tour, it`s great.
DON`T drink cappucino after 11am!
Prices on the Lido are half those in Venice - do all the tourist stuff in Venice by day, then back to Lido for the evening. We had full meals for 2 - pizza, side, drink for €20 or less for 2 people.
What will happen if you do?
Yes - got the water taxi booked as the hotel has it's own landing stage.
Why no cappuccino after 11am?
Haha I wondered this Jules. This is a once in a lifetime trip, so I'll not only have coffee after 11, but I may run with scissors and have wine with my lunch too!
Why not stay in Treviso? It's three miles from the airport, a very attractive town, with real Italian restaurants, not tourist traps. It has two or three trains an hour into Venice.
All the waiters, and any passing Italians, will laugh at you. Cappuchino is a breakfast drink.
Is that all? In that case I'll have my one daily coffee whatever time I like. Anyway I usually ask for a latte macchiato; perhaps different rules apply.
If you want a quick cheap stand up lunch go to a bacareto that's where te locals go
Avoid San Marco at night it's packed and cheesy try places like campo San Barnaba it's where the students and locals go Venice apart from the tourist spots isn't really open that late. Grom sells lovely ice cream.
If you dont always fancy Italian food there is a kosher restaurant called gam gam which is great.
Go to the Peggy guggenheim. Wear good shoes be prepared to walk miles and get very lost. Even getting lost in Venice is amazing have fun. If you are only having a short break go to murano and Burano but don't other going to torcello as there isn't much there at all.