
poor goldies, these little tanks should be clearly labelled not for goldfish

no offence at the OP, just a little rant
i back up everything said so far, you need to upgrade, and do it fast. those little orandas grow large, and it doesnt take long for them to become stunted.
if this link works...hopefully...this is a full grown oranda, now picture this in your tank
http://media.photobucket.com/image/l...ggoldfish2.jpg
you need around a 45-50 gallon tank, with filtration rated at around double the tank size you have. i run a fluval fx5, 2 fluval 4+ and a fluval 3+ on my 150 gallon (680 liter) goldfish tank. i still need to carry out 60-80% or thereabouts partial water changes with gravel vacs every weekend to keep nitrates low (i am overstocked with 13 fancy goldfish and 1 common in this tank though

hence the huge water changes needed every week!)
oh and just to add, never feed a fancy goldfish flake foods. flakes lose their vitamins very quickly on contact with the water, and also they encourage feedign from the surface, which in fancy egg bodied fish can cause swim bladder issues.
i feed saki-hikari fancy goldfish sinking mini pellets or hikari lionhead sinking pellets.
also, you will be needing to feed cooked, shelled peas at least once or twice a week, cut them up a little if they are too big for your little fish to eat. this is to push through any gases that they may have in their digestive tract and it does fancies the world of good. every single goldfish i have had, both fancy and common, love peas
make sure they get a good quality diet, with different things now and again. i feed mine pellets once a day in the morning, and in the evening i feed either pellets again or one of -brine shrimp/daphnia/blood worm/peas/cucumber/orange segments every other day instead of their pellets in the evening.
get some live plants in there too, they help with water quality between changes, especially as you are cycling, and the goldies will love to snack on them between feeds
while cycling, you will most likely need to be doing daily partial water changes. only feed once every other day to ensure the ammonia stays as low as possible while you are cycling. the fish will be fine with this.
you really should invest in a quality liquid drop test kit such as the api master test, which gives you ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/p.h for around £20. its literally a life saver for your fish.
if when you test you see ammonia or nitrites you need to do a partial water change to dilute, only when you read nitrates when you do the nitrate test will you be cycled. you can shorten this period of time (up to 8 weeks) by getting hold of some seeded gravel or filter media from an established tank (maybe a friend has one) and putting it straight into your tank. you are aiming for the following readings-ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate <40ppm. you will need to do weekly/fortnightly water changes once you are cycled to keep nitrates under 40ppm, preferably under 20 ppm but its safe for fish up to 40ppm.
always use dechlorinator as the tap water without being treated will kill off all your bacteria and leave you with an uncycled tank again and back at square 1.
my largest oranda is a female blue, and she is now reaching 7 inches. i cant imagine having even just her in a 21ltr tank and shes nowhere near full grown. as stressmonkey said, that tank is only really suitable for a couple of white cloud minnows or a betta fish or a few small tetras if you add a heater too.
i hope you can upgrade soon