|
||||||||
Opening the Remote to Clean It |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#26 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Worcester
Posts: 4,185
|
Quote:
Thanks GC, by resetting did you mean press red+OK ? David
|
|
|
|
|
Please sign in or register to remove this advertisement.
|
|
|
#27 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cambs
Posts: 874
|
Quote:
Yep that's the one.
![]() It came back when the cells fell to 1.52 v That seems an uneconomical way of using batteries. David |
|
|
|
|
|
#28 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Wemyss Bay, Scotland
Posts: 224
|
Hi, Don't know if this might help but have you tried Energiser Lithium batteries. I have a Magic mouse on my Mac which is heavy on AA batteries (alkaline). A few days after inserting a new set the battery indicator for the mouse on the Mac starts going down from 100%. I got a suggestion from fellow user that I should try Lithium. Ordered a set on-line put them in (end of Feb) battery indicator still at 100%. I think you can get them in AAA. Might be worth a try. When my current batteries in my remotes including Humax run down I might start using these. Looks like they have a very level discharge rate. Maybe they will go from 100% to 0% overnight
|
|
|
|
|
|
#29 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cambs
Posts: 874
|
Quote:
Hi, Don't know if this might help but have you tried Energiser Lithium batteries. I have a Magic mouse on my Mac which is heavy on AA batteries (alkaline). A few days after inserting a new set the battery indicator for the mouse on the Mac starts going down from 100%. I got a suggestion from fellow user that I should try Lithium. Ordered a set on-line put them in (end of Feb) battery indicator still at 100%. I think you can get them in AAA. Might be worth a try. When my current batteries in my remotes including Humax run down I might start using these. Looks like they have a very level discharge rate. Maybe they will go from 100% to 0% overnight
![]() Do you know which type he used, there are dozens of types, not just makers. See Wikipedia. David Cathode Material Average Voltage LiCoO2 3.7 V LiMn2O4 4.0 V LiNiO2 3.5 V LiFePO4 3.3 V Li2FePO4F 3.6 V LiCo1/3Ni1/3Mn1/3O2 3.6 V Li(LiaNixMnyCoz)O2 4.2 V And many more at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_battery I thought that doubling the voltage might be an issue !
|
|
|
|
|
|
#30 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Scouser in Chilterns
Posts: 711
|
Reminds me of how the term 'Sh*t or Bust' was used for the original Microwave Scatter systems..
Hence i would be more inclined to look as much at the other end of the System.. viz the 'Light Emitter'. About 6 months ago we re-illuminated our Night garden.. Some of the Multi-element emitters in each of the lamps have failed.. Very reputable suppliers.. so how many now virtually no light output??.. On 2 specimens only 4 outputs are working out of 20+ originals.. so why not check the output of the emitter in a more precise way than just seeing it on a Camcorder.. as it might be that therein lies the problem? |
|
|
|
|
|
#31 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cambs
Posts: 874
|
Quote:
..
so why not check the output of the emitter in a more precise way than just seeing it on a Camcorder.. as it might be that therein lies the problem? but have a digital camera.So how bearing in mind I don't have a "good" remote to do a comparison. I'll give a few flashes to the camera to see if & what. ![]() David |
|
|
|
|
|
#32 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cambs
Posts: 874
|
Quote:
Hi, Don't know if this might help but have you tried Energiser Lithium batteries. I have a Magic mouse on my Mac which is heavy on AA batteries (alkaline). A few days after inserting a new set the battery indicator for the mouse on the Mac starts going down from 100%. I got a suggestion from fellow user that I should try Lithium. Ordered a set on-line put them in (end of Feb) battery indicator still at 100%. I think you can get them in AAA. Might be worth a try. When my current batteries in my remotes including Humax run down I might start using these. Looks like they have a very level discharge rate. Maybe they will go from 100% to 0% overnight
![]() http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/lithiuml91l92_appman.pdf Clicking on "System Comparisons" gets a graph of Volts v power used & they do indeed stay near 1.5 for much longer than alkaline types. I'll try them, thanks CanonMan. ![]() David |
|
|
|
|
|
#33 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Black Hill Tx
Posts: 742
|
Instructions for opening remote...
Ok, i've just managed to open my Humax remote and actually, its surprisingly easy once you get it started...
1. Remove batteries (no, there aren't any screws to remove!) You can snap the battery door back shut again as it doesn't need to be off to get the main case apart. (but you do need the batteries out so that the springs release easily) 2. Find yourself a small very thin penknife blade (I used a Swiss Army Knife one - the smallest blade) 3. Without the knife, just get hold of the remote with both hands at each end and twist it back and forth to make sure it will flex. 4. The indents are on the top plate at regular intervals. The "hooks" are on the side of the base. You just need to find the first one to spring... 5. Holding the remote horizontally, i/r window to the left (I'm right handed) with the side of the remote facing you, peak over the top and draw an imaginary line across the remote towards you from the top of the "OPT+" button. 6. Where this "line" comes over the edge, place the point of your knife in the join and push in with a firm pressure. You should hear a click and the case will start to part... 7. Quickly put your thumbnail in the opening and twist... The next catch is about 6cm up on that side (line across the "MEDIA" & "GUIDE" buttons. 8. Once you get these two open, the rest are relatively plain sailing. They are ALL the same, all the way round; even at the ends. Pressure on the top plate inside the gap releases them. The bottom compartment is over them. 9. Remember that everything is carried by the upper plate (the circuit board and button rubber is lightly clipped to it); including the battery springs which should lift out of their holders as you prise the cases apart. 10. Voila! One Humax remote disassembled. ![]() Putting it back together is simpler, you just need to remember to assemble everything into the top plate (under the latches either end for the circuit board) and then offer up the battery springs first as you place the two halves together... |
|
|
|
|
#34 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 96
|
We've been having issues with the remote as well - at first suspected batteries and changed them. After a couple of weeks the issues resurfaced. Definitely not the box as I noticed that the little lights on the remote (PVR/TV/DVD/AUDIO buttons) were not illuminating when a button was pressed.
Perhaps co-incidentally the remote worked again if the batteries were wiggled (or percussion adjusted depending on how urgently the remote was required to work). Might be time to try the Energiser Lithium batteries as well. |
|
|
|
|
|
#35 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Black Hill Tx
Posts: 742
|
Quote:
Putting it back together is simpler, you just need to remember to assemble everything into the top plate (under the latches either end for the circuit board) and then offer up the battery springs first as you place the two halves together...
As an aside, I noticed while I had it apart that the i/r led is one of the very tiny ones, much smaller than typical for a remote in my experience. I would guess that this is probably lower power which may explain (partly) the bad performance of these remotes that we are all noticing? |
|
|
|
|
#36 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cambs
Posts: 874
|
Quote:
Ok, i've just managed to open my Humax remote and actually, its surprisingly easy once you get it started...
1. Remove batteries (no, there aren't any screws to remove!) You can snap the battery door back shut again as it doesn't need to be off to get the main case apart. (but you do need the batteries out so that the springs release easily) 2. Find yourself a small very thin penknife blade (I used a Swiss Army Knife one - the smallest blade) 3. Without the knife, just get hold of the remote with both hands at each end and twist it back and forth to make sure it will flex. 4. The indents are on the top plate at regular intervals. The "hooks" are on the side of the base. You just need to find the first one to spring... 5. Holding the remote horizontally, i/r window to the left (I'm right handed) with the side of the remote facing you, peak over the top and draw an imaginary line across the remote towards you from the top of the "OPT+" button. 6. Where this "line" comes over the edge, place the point of your knife in the join and push in with a firm pressure. You should hear a click and the case will start to part... 7. Quickly put your thumbnail in the opening and twist... The next catch is about 6cm up on that side (line across the "MEDIA" & "GUIDE" buttons. 8. Once you get these two open, the rest are relatively plain sailing. They are ALL the same, all the way round; even at the ends. Pressure on the top plate inside the gap releases them. The bottom compartment is over them. 9. Remember that everything is carried by the upper plate (the circuit board and button rubber is lightly clipped to it); including the battery springs which should lift out of their holders as you prise the cases apart. 10. Voila! One Humax remote disassembled. ![]() Putting it back together is simpler, you just need to remember to assemble everything into the top plate (under the latches either end for the circuit board) and then offer up the battery springs first as you place the two halves together... ![]() I followed your steps except at "7" I substituted a 4mm screwdriver for my thumbnail. The insides were not as gunged up as I had expected, it was only really visible under the EXIT & BACK buttons. My experience of Sky remotes saw much more oily looking gunge. I cleaned up everything with a methylated spirits soaked paper tissue & reassembled without difficulty. Text down-paging has not since changed channels, which was my original problem, though I've only done 30 mins testing. Time alone will tell. Thanks again CPN. David |
|
|
|
|
|
#37 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cambs
Posts: 874
|
Quote:
We've been having issues with the remote as well - at first suspected batteries and changed them. After a couple of weeks the issues resurfaced. Definitely not the box as I noticed that the little lights on the remote (PVR/TV/DVD/AUDIO buttons) were not illuminating when a button was pressed.
Perhaps co-incidentally the remote worked again if the batteries were wiggled (or percussion adjusted depending on how urgently the remote was required to work). Might be time to try the Energiser Lithium batteries as well. This seemed to clear the "unwanted subtitles" that arose after pausing. Channel changing when trying to move down text pages was NOT cured. Although as in my previous post this was cleared by opening & cleaning with meths. (SO FAR !!) A word of warning about Energiser Ultimate Lithium batteries. Their open circuit voltage was 1.82v. Even after 2 days use they are still 1.75v These are not the Humax recommended cells or voltage, but I was so irritated that I took that chance. David |
|
|
|
|
|
#38 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cambs
Posts: 874
|
Spoke too soon!!!
Remote has learnt a new trick. If I scroll down, anything, it goes into a continuous scroll. Only stops if I either remove batteries or switch-off at the HDR. I'll perform another open & clean & go back to normal batteries. David ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() PS I sense a Harmony coming on
|
|
|
|
|
|
#39 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cambs
Posts: 874
|
Cured the continuous scrolling problem.
I reopened it & think that I had miss assembled the silver ring. The ring to rubber sheet location is fixed by 4 very small lugs fittinginto notches positioned at 11, 1, 5 & 7 o'clock. I presume that I had it displaced round from that. Good news that continuous scrolling absent & it doesn't switch channel while navigating text pages. Lithium or alkaline batteries make no difference. Bad news the unwanted subtitles, after quitting pause, are back. Lithium or alkaline batteries again make no difference. David |
|
|
|
|
|
#40 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Black Hill Tx
Posts: 742
|
Quote:
Cured the continuous scrolling problem.
I reopened it & think that I had miss assembled the silver ring. The ring to rubber sheet location is fixed by 4 very small lugs fittinginto notches positioned at 11, 1, 5 & 7 o'clock. I presume that I had it displaced round from that. ![]() Quote:
Good news that continuous scrolling absent & it doesn't switch channel while navigating text pages. Lithium or alkaline batteries make no difference.
Bad news the unwanted subtitles, after quitting pause, are back. Lithium or alkaline batteries again make no difference. David Colin |
|
|
|
|
#41 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cambs
Posts: 874
|
Quote:
Ah yes, I should have mentioned that silver ring in my instructions...
Colin![]() Quote:
Good to hear that at least you got the worst of it sorted... I would have thought that the extra 0.2V per cell wouldn't have made too much difference to the inner chip. I expect its supply voltage tolerance will be higher than that... (it probably has a working range of about 2V to 4Vish anyway...)Colin
Eliminating channel scroll while changing text pages is a gain, probably due to cleaning the PCB, after opening, thanks Colin. The gunge was much less than in Sky remotes. I feel that its been an interesting & constructive thread, thank-you to all the contributers. David |
|
|
|
|
|
#42 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Black Hill Tx
Posts: 742
|
Quote:
Eliminating channel scroll while changing text pages is a gain, probably due to cleaning the PCB, after opening, thanks Colin.
![]() Quote:
The gunge was much less than in Sky remotes.
![]() Quote:
I feel that its been an interesting & constructive thread
|
|
|
|
|
#43 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2
|
Given that the IR LED is a tiny one (presumably bigger is better?), does anyone have the required technical skills (unlike me) to be able to advise if replacing it with a bigger one would improve things?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#44 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Black Hill Tx
Posts: 742
|
Quote:
Given that the IR LED is a tiny one (presumably bigger is better?), does anyone have the required technical skills (unlike me) to be able to advise if replacing it with a bigger one would improve things?
|
|
|
|
|
#45 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Black Hill Tx
Posts: 742
|
Success!
Ok, I've got some good news and some good news!
The first bit of good news is that I managed to change the standard I/R diode to a new high power part (Maplin Part No. YH70M) and the even better bit of good news is that first impressions seem to suggest that it has transformed the Humax's abysmal Remote Control performance! In the wife's words... "it's like going from normal definition to HD!" (and there was no sterner critic of the Humax's remote than her... )However, as in all these things, there are some considerations to take account of. You'll be replacing a 3mm LED with a 5mm part and that may not sound much but it is when you take account of the construct of the lens end of the remote. So, having taken the case apart as previously described, take the circuit board out completely. There's no need to remove the actual flexible keyboard itself. You'll need a small 18-25W soldering iron with a small bit, some damp cleaning sponge for the bit, solder (of course) and importantly, some de-soldering braid. You could use a soldering sucker if you have a good one but personally, I much prefer braid as it makes a tidier job of scavenging the old solder from the joint. If the sound of anything in this paragraph has your palms sweating, then go no further! This conversion is not for you! ![]() Ok, if you are still with me, before you remove the smaller diode (LED) from the board, offer up the new one making sure you match the flats on the side of the lens (also if you look inside the diode, the cathode/anode shapes should match - you'll see what I mean) and make sure you get the bend distance EXACTLY the same as the existing diode. It's important that the back of the LED is hard up against the circuit board in its cut-out. Having put a 90 degree bend in the new one's leads, remove the old one and clean up the mounting holes. They're single sided and so clean up easily. Now mount and solder the new one in. You can put its leads flat to the circuit board if you want or leave the 90 deg "knee" 1mm clear of the board. Either way will work. Right, this is the bit that will definitely void your warranty! If you offer up the cct board into the top half of the case, you'll notice that even though everything fits fine, the new diode is parallel to the board and given that the lens in the lower half of the case has a slope, you'll quickly realise that although the case will close OK, it won't fully close around the new diode. If you look under the diode (top half of case) you'll see a small rib between the two hooks that hold the circuit board. You'll need your small penknife (or craft knife) to gently pare down a small semi-circle into the centre of this rib to allow the new diode to sink into the gap about 1-2mm. Don't go too far as it will weaken the rib. If you've got it right, the LED should end up at about 5-10degs off parallel in relation to the circuit board and the case will go back on and all should snap shut fine with a good seal and now you can put the batteries back in and enjoy your new super sensitive remote! ![]() The new LED has a 40deg beam angle and I'm sure this helps, along with the higher output, to improve the Remote overall. One little bonus I found out through all of this is that the remote does NOT drop all of its programmed settings (TV, DVD & AUDIO) even when the batteries are out for extended periods; which is great! Saves me having to search out the darn manual! |
|
|
|
|
#46 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,494
|
@CPN I hope Humax are reading this because looking at the component cost this seems to be a good replacement for the part used at the moment.
Personally I haven't tried it as my remote works fine, but it seems from yoiur reports to be a vast improvment. How are you cleaning your pcb btw? Maplin sell electrical PCB cleaner which might be a good solution as it evaporates away without residue: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=27521 I've used their contact cleaner before but this sounds better still. |
|
|
|
|
|
#47 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Black Hill Tx
Posts: 742
|
Quote:
@CPN I hope Humax are reading this because looking at the component cost this seems to be a good replacement for the part used at the moment.
However, it has to be said that for it to be a manufacturer mod, the case would need to be altered properly really...Quote:
Personally I haven't tried it as my remote works fine, but it seems from your reports to be a vast improvement.
- she's American!) in comparison to the others. Now, it performs the same if not better than them...Quote:
How are you cleaning your pcb btw?
Quote:
Maplin sell electrical PCB cleaner which might be a good solution as it evaporates away without residue: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=27521
|
|
|
|
|
#48 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cambs
Posts: 874
|
Quote:
Indeed. I'm very pleased at the resultant performance improvement for an outlay of £1.09p
![]() Quote:
I have to say that actually, the Humax Remote seems to seal better that most remotes and therefore doesn't seem to get very dirty at all inside... (unlike the Sky remote for example...)
I'll check that out... ![]() Did the Humax design engineers have a remit to reduce power on everything to "just enough" Their standby wattage is less than any other device of this ilk. afaik. David |
|
|
|
|
|
#49 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Redditch Worcs
Posts: 17,289
|
Quote:
Did the Humax design engineers have a remit to reduce power on everything to "just enough"
Their standby wattage is less than any other device of this ilk. afaik. David |
|
|
|
|
|
#50 |
|
Forum Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Black Hill Tx
Posts: 742
|
Quote:
It's a EEC directive all new kit of this ilk has to have a sby power requirement <1W.
The suits in Brussels get their oar in again...
|
|
|
![]() |
|
All times are GMT. The time now is 16:28.






