1:
I think iPlayer needs a little more buffering time before starting.

2:
The delay betweet/updating EPG pages needs to be reduced further, and the ability to toggle sort options quickly in the EPG would be nice.

3:
Needs a Lock/Protect option for recorded files, the current Kept option does not prevent files from being accidently deleted.

4:
The interface when using a USB drive needs further work, such as the coloured options icons dont show on root screens even though they do work if pressed..ie. just not showing on screen, though they do show when in folders.
A popup notification that files have been copied from the pen-drive would be useful too.

5:
When viewing say Music MP3 files on a USB stick which may have video files too, why do other file types show up too... no point, as you have to go into Music to play MP3's and into Video menu to play movies etc.
IOW only the file types for your chosen media type should show. I can't see point of showing all files types when you cannot play them... until specifically selected.

3. and at least part of 2 are G2 related (freesat). I think that is why one menu tree is labelled "Humax"

4. The missing indication of the buttons to be used is indeed an omision that is simple to resolve.

5. I think this is a little more complicated when dealing with container extensions which could contain multiples of music and/or video.

6. Needs slow-motion (forward/reverse/frame advance) facilities

7. Needs facility to copy recordings to USB (or even better across the network).

8. Would be nice if the 'search' feature remembered recent searches - and better still if 'favourite' searches could be saved so a notification could be displayed if the object of one's search has just been found. It would be nice if one could search through the programmes' info summary text too.

9. There's a bug where, if playback is paused, the skip forward/back buttons move the cursor displayed on screen, but have no other effect.

10. Needs a working non-Freesat mode (by which I mean some kind of EPG and recording facilities) - at the moment, if Freesat were to fold, we'd be left with a very expensive white elephant.

11. I don't like the way that the various "recordings" lists wrap around - I wish they would stop scrolling at the end.

12. Needs a facility to switch off the front panel display - or at least prevent the 'flashing' effect when a title scrolls off the display then suddenly reappears.

13. Personally I'd prefer a better remote that can control the TV, and also has the 'transport' buttons at thumb-level instead of the more rarely-used numeric buttons.

14. Personally (again) I find some of the EPG screens and so on overburdened by graphics and big arrows and such like. I'd prefer a more workmanlike display that actually shows a reasonably long list of planned or existing recordings, with less scrolling necessary.

15. There seems to be some odd behaviour around the EPG, whereby when it's first displayed, then the 'fast forward' is pressed to go forward 24 hours, it doesn't actually do that - instead it switches from now/next mode to full EPG mode; slightly confusing.

16. For safety reasons it should have a 3 Amp fuse in the lead supplied, not a 13 Amp (everyone reading this, please make sure you change yours).

Wow! this is really serious and makes a mockery of "CE Approval"
The majority of owners will not read posts here so will continue to be at risk unless Humax do something.
Frank

In the CE nearly all plugs are unfused. Good circiuit breakers are considered adequate. Ring mains as used in the UK are hang over from the war abd result in higher value circuit breakers in the consumer unit..They do hoverever use less cable.

I think that this is what freesat has required for G2.
With luck a DLNA server will come in the coming months.

The fuse in a BS1363 plug is designed to protect the flexible cord not the appliance. Clearly it has to be large enough to carry the full load requirement of the appliance continously.

Provided the flexible cord is of sufficient cross sectional area to carry the prospective maximum fault current for the operate time of the hrc fuse then it's continous rating is irrelevant.
The operation time of a 3A fuse compared to a 13A fuse under short circuit conditions is not significantly different.

Fuses are not really designed to provide any adequate overload capacity protection rather to eliminate large fault currents arising from actual faults. The power supply unit itself is more than likely to have it's own protection circuitry.

Hi Graham,
Yes, fully understand this which is why I'm sure the supplied mains lead is probably rated at no more than 6A (probably less). A 13A BS fuse will certainly not protect it.
Frank

Nothing for them to do - there's no problem with having a 13A fuse in the mains lead, and nothing to do with CE approval.

As others have said, the plug fuse is only for protection against the mains lead been damaged - and a 13A fuse in the plug will blow just as a 3A one does if the lead is cut through and shorted out.

It may well be a design choice to have a 13A fuse in the plug?, just as CRT TV's generally required a 13A fuse, as plug fuses are fast blow, and the switch-on surges can intermittently blow a smaller value plug fuse.

The box of course is protected anyway, by an anti-surge fuse immediately inside the box.

So nothing 'serious' at all, just an over reaction by people not understanding it.

You clearly don't fully understand.

A fuse is not and never has been a overload protection device, it's characteristics are completely wrong for such a purpose (hence the use of MCB's), it's a cheap, 100% reliable protection against fault currents provided the current is within it's rupturing capacity, in this case a live-neutral short circuit.

The continous rating of the cable isn't that relevant. The short circuit current experienced by the cable will be near identical whatever it's cross section. In terms of the fault level the cord is far too short to significantly alter the current flowing into a short circuit. The critical factor is the time taken for it's fuse to blow. A 3A and 13A fuse at the sort of currents you get from a short circuit will operate in pretty much the same time (approx 0.001 seconds). Look at the time/current characteristics for BS1362 fuses.

Graham.
However strongly you argue Humax's case, using a 13A fuse is clearly wrong.
Frank

You keep saying the same thing without a shred of evidence. It's nothing to do with supporting Humax many makers fit 13A fuses as standard. It's not against any regulations, neither is it wrong.


From

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BS_1363

Basically you are promoting a bit of a myth. It's actually more dangerous to install a 3A fuse in a device that for example uses say 4.5A. It will eventually blow but not for an extended time, during this period it will get very hot (together with the plug). The copper fuse clips will lose their tension due to the heat further exacerbating the problem. Why do you think that only 3A and 13A fuses are now made ?

But hey if you feel so strongly about it, talk to trading standards and see how far you get. I won't be changing the fuse in my plug, it's a waste of effort.

Not sure about yout background but I did work in the Electricity Supply industry as a professional engineer for 40yrs. Lost count of the number of fuse grading calculations I did in the early days for distribution fittings.

Keeping repeating something totally wrong isn't going to make you right - there's nothing at all wrong with a 13A fuse in the plug.

From the manual. Power Supply

Input Voltage AC 100-240,50/60Hz
Protection Seperate Internal Fuse & Lightning protection

Oh dear, I feel a bit bad about kicking all this off now!

I'm no electrician, but my understanding of putting a 3 Amp fuse in, say, a spin-dryer lead, was that if the dryer were to jam, and thus its normal, say, 1 Amp load were to rise to 6 Amps, the fuse would blow to stop the cable smouldering and catching fire... is this not the case?

It does seem as though there was some kind of mix-up in Humax Towers though - as I commented in another thread, the label on the lead was also wrong, referring not only to a 13 Amp fuse but also saying "this appliance must be earthed" and specifying the three cable core colours - so very clearly the wrong label for this lead and appliance....

You wouldn't normally put a 3A fuse in a spindryer unless it was a very small one, the start from stationary current with a full load is likely to exceed 3A by a considerable margin. Imagine the power required to accelerate a load of wet clothes from zero to say 1000rpm.

What would you do if an appliance had a rated current of 3.5A ?. They now only make 13A fuses so no choice.

A fuse is pretty useless as a overload protection device, many items have internally thermal operated trip devices to cover this situation.

come on guys.. it's a fuse.. thats all. If one feels happier putting a 3 or 5 amp in the plug then do it... end of

Would you gentlemen like the definitive answer? (well, a crowd-sourced one from a more reputable place than Digital Spy? )

The fuse in the plug is there to protect the cable, not the appliance. This wasn't always completely true, but is today.

Modern UK main cables are specified to be adequately protected by a 13A fuse (this wasn't always the case, but is today).

Only those countries using BS 1363 plugs and sockets (like the UK) include fuses in plugs; everyone else on ~230V relies on lower rated fuses/MCBs in a consumer unit or room unit for the same protection. e.g. 16A on the continent, vs 20A or 32A in the UK.

However, it is still best practice to use a 3A fuse where ever possible. While it's true that a perfect short in a perfect system will blow either a 13A or 3A in a sensible amount of time, there are three reasons to prefer a 3A fuse over a 13A one where possible...
1) the damage to the cable may not create a perfect short, but may still create a fire and/or shock hazard. The 3A fuse is more likely to blow / blow sooner in this scenario than the 13A one.
2) the wiring in the house is unlikely to be perfect. Lose connections, oxidisation, etc can cause even a "perfect short" to cause the fuse to blow far more slowly, due to insufficient current flowing. Meanwhile, there is enough current flowing to heat the cable.
The most likely scenario is a combination of 1 and 2 - imperfect short, imperfect wiring.
3) A 13A fuse makes a louder bang when it blows.

For the vast majority of us, this will never make any difference at all. But neither will smoke alarms - and I have five of those.

I am not an electrician. I am not a lawyer. This information and advice is worth what you paid for it (i.e. NOTHING!)

Cheers,
David.

P.S. thank you to the people elsewhere who gave most of this information.
P.P.S. I also found this: http://www.pat-testing-expert.com/su...Plug-Fuses.php which echoes the age-old advice to use the lowest appropriate fuse.

David - you did not mention the additional fuse in the unit.

Cheers,
David.

I'd like to see the current time when I press the ok button while viewing a channel.

I have to look at my watch (difficult in the dark) or press the full tv guide button.

Also favourite channels.. I'd like to flick through them like on my old foxsat-hdr. I can only look at them in sorted order through the tv guide!!!

The "search" function currently gives a lot of duplicate results for the same programmes in different BBC regions.

It would be nice if it could filter out the duplicates.

I can't help feeling that these comments / suggestions should be posted in a freesat G2 thread as they will be the same on all G2 units.

Can anyone tell me if deleting recordings on this new machine is like the original Foxsat - where it takes up to a minute to delete a hd recording? thanks.

nope pretty much instant, it deletes in background so u can press delete and then carry on wi whatever ya wanna do immediately