Originally Posted by Hildaonpluto:
“
I say again you really should consider writing a book on this special unique era.
One matter Im quite interested in recently is some of the behind the scenes stuff from the fulm sets and the art/craft of filmmaking.
Is there a particular costume designer or "dresser" to the stars particularly the ladies from this era who was considered to be amongst the best in the business and sought after by the stars?
Did Barbara have a favourite "dresser" for lack of a bitter voculabary on my part?Did stars take their own dressers to each new film or did the studio always supply them?
Im kind of assuming this knowledge is in your encyclopedic mind!
”
“
I say again you really should consider writing a book on this special unique era.
One matter Im quite interested in recently is some of the behind the scenes stuff from the fulm sets and the art/craft of filmmaking.
Is there a particular costume designer or "dresser" to the stars particularly the ladies from this era who was considered to be amongst the best in the business and sought after by the stars?
Did Barbara have a favourite "dresser" for lack of a bitter voculabary on my part?Did stars take their own dressers to each new film or did the studio always supply them?
Im kind of assuming this knowledge is in your encyclopedic mind!
”
I could certainly write a book about the dress designer known as "The Dress Doctor," who like a Fairy Godmother, not only transformed Barbara's screen image, turning her into a glamorous "clothes horse," but who also ended up designing her personal wardrobe as well.
Until she starred in The Lady Eve, Barbara had never shown the slightest interest in clothes or fashion. Although she was never scruffy or untidy like some of todays so called "stars," she was certainly no fashion plate. In fact at the premiere of her film Stella Dallas she was dressed so plainly that she was roughed up by a couple of cops who thought she was a fan trying to gate crash the event. On screen she looked glamorous when the role called for it, but she was usually dressed by Orry-Kelly, Travis Banton, or Travilla, who were used to dressing glamour girls like Dietrich who took a great personal interest in all of her film costumes.
What happened to change everything is described by Edith Head in her excellent book, "The Dress Doctor."
"I had first designed for Barbara in 1940 on Paramount's romantic comedy, Remember the Night - a picture in which Stanwyck had floored people by donning hats without even looking in a mirror, and with no concern for how they looked on her. She explained her behaviour by saying, 'It's my performance that I'm concerned with, not how I look.' But on the set of The Lady Eve, things went a little differently.
Some actresses fit in three minutes, some take three days. There are those who stand before the mirror absorbing each minute adjustment. Barbara is the one who stood with her back to the mirror! As for fashion, she couldn't have cared less.
The Lady Eve was strictly a dress picture, and I was about to inoculate her with flattering furs, shimmering evening sheaths, and diamonds.
Barbara walked about while director Preston Sturges explained her dual role as two sophisticated ladies; a titled Englishwoman, and a lady gambler. Any expert eye could tell there'd be no difficulty in Stanwyck carrying high fashion. She's small, but she has excellent carriage, a good figure an innate poise. She listened to our diagnosis and said nothing. Barbara would make a first rate hand at poker.
Her first fitting involved an evening gown for the love scene with Henry Fonda. It was of clinging black crepe, a sheath with the slimmest of slim looks (she hated tight skirts), the lowest of necklines, a very high, very tight cummerbund (she hates anything tight around her midriff), and a short jacket covered with black glitter.
When she finally turned around and saw herself in the mirror she was stunned, and she fell in love with high fashion. I worked on all of her pictures for years, and it was the beginning of a long and happy relationship. I enjoyed it because Barbara, with her clean cut, arresting beauty, wears clothes well; but she has a sense of humour that keeps her from ever taking fashion too seriously. She's extraordinarily honest: 'This looks pretty repulsive on me, don't you agree?' Brutally frank: 'It maybe winter white jersey Edith, it looks like long underwear to me!'
The only argument we ever had concerned wardrobe tests. The average female showing clothes just automatically models, put one hand on her hip and walks thus. She'll turn her best angle to the director and cameraman. Barbara puts on a beguiling costume and just stand before the camera, turns around, walks, I'd gesture wildly from behind the camera. 'Hands on the hip, Barbara, come on girl!'
Barbara would have none of it. 'I'm not a model, why should I act like one?' she'd say. Once a costume was in action, an actual scene being shot, the clothes became part of her characterization.'
When the film was released both Barbara's performance, and her glamorous new look received raves, and the costumes started the trend for the Latin American look.
From then on Edith, who usually only designed for Paramount films went with Barbara to Warner's, United Artists, Goldwyn, and Columbia. The only studio that she didn't go to was MGM, where Barbara had the services of the expert designers, Irene, and Helen Rose.
These are the films that Edith designed Barbara's costumes after The Lady Eve:
You Belong To Me - Ball of Fire - The Great Man's Lady - The Gay Sisters - Lady of Burlesque - Flesh and Fantasy - Double Indemnity - Hollywood Canteen - Christmas in Connecticut - My Reputation - The Bride Wore Boots - The Strange Love of Martha Ivers - California - The Two Mrs Carrolls - The Other Love - Cry Wolf - Variety Girl - Sorry, Wrong Number - The File on Thelma Jordon - No Man of Her Own - The Furies - Roustabout.
It was rumoured that this was scrawled on the walls of the men's toilets at Paramount Studios -
"Edith Head gives good wardrobe!"

When Barbara came to London in 1947 for the World premiere of her film The Other Love, she brought her wardrobe from the film with her, and modelled it for the Press at the Savoy Hotel. They were probably the most beautiful costumes that she ever wore in any film, and she kept several of them for her own personal wardrobe.
You can see photo albums for the costumes of both films in our group.
When Barbara moved to Television in 1960 she found another great designer by the name of Werle. He was responsible for her first TV series, "The Barbara Stanwyck Show," and that won her the first of her three Emmy's.
Her last designer was Nolan Miller, he is probably best remembered for the costumes for Joan Collins and Linda Evans in Dynasty. He designed her personal wardrobe, including the bugle bead gown that she wore when I met her at the Lincoln Centre in 1981. The most beautiful gown that he ever designed for her was for the 1978 Acadamy Awards when she presented the Star Wars Oscar with her friend William Holden. He broke away from the script to pay a personal tribute to Barbara, saying that the only reason that he was there that evening was because of her kindness to him in his first film, and you can see that on You Tube.
Jean Louis was the main designer at Columbia, and Adrian at MGM was responsible for Joan Crawford's shoulder pads. When he saw her massive shoulders, instead of disguising them he exaggerated them, and started a trend in the 1930's that was revived again by Nolan Miller for Dynasty in the 1980's. Joan was also famous for her ankle strap shoes, which were known as "Joan Crawford Fu## Me Shoes."





