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Spades for speaker ports |
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#1 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: The sane side of the pond
Posts: 1,499
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Spades for speaker ports
Hi
I've recieved the spades, but just need to ask why each spade has 2 grub screws. One grub screw sits just ahead of the other, and they screw in from opposite sides of each other (hope all that makes sense). I assume that either; both screws are used to secure the wire, or one secures the wire and the other secures the outer cover. The already come with heat shrink tubing to secure the outer cover though. Thanks |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 6,462
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It's a "belt and braces" approach. One screw might work loose, but with two there's less chance of that.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
It's a "belt and braces" approach. One screw might work loose, but with two there's less chance of that.
I'll definitely use both, but are they both for the wire or is one for the wire and one for the outer cover? |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Cheshire
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AFAIK there's no single approved "correct" method. It depend how thick (or thin) the copper core of your cable is and whether you feel that it needs a screw holding the sleeve. Personally I have always used decent thickness cable (1.5~4.0mm CSA) and so I have gone for both screws on to the bare wire.
The other thought is that the PVC or whatever sleeve material is more likely to deform over time compared to copper; so from a logical point of view then both on to wire is (IMO) more likely to give a firmer connection for longer. In the end all you need is one good electrical connection. How you achieve that is up to you. |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,905
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Quote:
AFAIK there's no single approved "correct" method. It depend how thick (or thin) the copper core of your cable is and whether you feel that it needs a screw holding the sleeve. Personally I have always used decent thickness cable (1.5~4.0mm CSA) and so I have gone for both screws on to the bare wire.
The other thought is that the PVC or whatever sleeve material is more likely to deform over time compared to copper; so from a logical point of view then both on to wire is (IMO) more likely to give a firmer connection for longer. In the end all you need is one good electrical connection. How you achieve that is up to you. I'm sure Winston1 will be along shortly to correct you - after all, who knew there was an approved way to fit a Belling Lee aerial plug
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#6 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: The sane side of the pond
Posts: 1,499
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Quote:
AFAIK there's no single approved "correct" method. It depend how thick (or thin) the copper core of your cable is and whether you feel that it needs a screw holding the sleeve. Personally I have always used decent thickness cable (1.5~4.0mm CSA) and so I have gone for both screws on to the bare wire.
The other thought is that the PVC or whatever sleeve material is more likely to deform over time compared to copper; so from a logical point of view then both on to wire is (IMO) more likely to give a firmer connection for longer. In the end all you need is one good electrical connection. How you achieve that is up to you. The thing that has always bugged me is the amp terminals. I always wanted to use banana plugs, but the ones I've tried have been too thick, and you can't unscrew the terminal heads far enough for spades to fit. So all I can do is have a direct connection which is fine but not so neat and practical. Still, the narrower cable is more manageable for that. Thanks for your help |
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#7 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,096
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Quote:
I always wanted to use banana plugs, but the ones I've tried have been too thick,
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#8 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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you sure the inserts don't come out as well? have a look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxNl2XNMO0k
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#9 |
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Guest
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 8,103
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Quote:
Ok then, I shall get to it. The cable in question is narrow QED, replacing some old TALK cable that was so thick it was actually unmanageable in my case. To my ears there is no loss in sound quality.
The thing that has always bugged me is the amp terminals. I always wanted to use banana plugs, but the ones I've tried have been too thick, and you can't unscrew the terminal heads far enough for spades to fit. So all I can do is have a direct connection which is fine but not so neat and practical. Still, the narrower cable is more manageable for that. Thanks for your help https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgu...BvgQMwgeKAMwAw |
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#10 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: The sane side of the pond
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Quote:
If you can't use spades or banana plugs another alternative is pin connectors, normally used on spring clip terminals but can be used on binding posts, the angled ones are better suited.
https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgu...BvgQMwgeKAMwAw Here's an old picture of the back of the amp, taken when I was testing banana plugs with the old horrible thick cable. You can clearly see the terminals in question. http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...psgxi7tr9o.jpg |
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Reading
Posts: 27,926
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Quote:
Thanks. I've seen those before and always thought they looked too narrow.
Here's an old picture of the back of the amp, taken when I was testing banana plugs with the old horrible thick cable. You can clearly see the terminals in question. http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...psgxi7tr9o.jpg https://www.audiovisualonline.co.uk/..._l_1-large.jpg |
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#12 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
Perhaps this style of banana plug might fit better
https://www.audiovisualonline.co.uk/..._l_1-large.jpg Am I correct in assuming that the point of contact when using banana plugs is the tip of the banana plug touching the inside far end of the terminal? I ask because that would be the only point of contact on mine. |
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#13 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Reading
Posts: 27,926
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Quote:
Yes possibly those then. Another gamble though. I sometimes wish there was a simple "yes those will work" answer.
Am I correct in assuming that the point of contact when using banana plugs is the tip of the banana plug touching the inside far end of the terminal? I ask because that would be the only point of contact on mine. In theory the plugs and sockets should be made to the same overall specs but tolerances, especially in the cheaper plugs, could be a bit lax and mean the plug is a bit over or under sized, so either won't fit or flops around in the socket. |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
I suspect that if you looked more closely you would find that there is actually a hollow cylinder of metal in the speaker terminals on the amp so quite a bit of the banana plug is in contact with the terminal not just the very tip which would not make for a very secure connection.
In theory the plugs and sockets should be made to the same overall specs but tolerances, especially in the cheaper plugs, could be a bit lax and mean the plug is a bit over or under sized, so either won't fit or flops around in the socket. Perhaps there is a cylinder of metal, but I honestly can't see it. So I suspect that the terminals on the SU-V460 were not designed with banana plugs in mind. I have emailed Technics on that and hopefully they will have a definitive answer. In the meantime I think I need a slimline flat ended banana plug with a secure fit, perhaps like the QED ones linked to in this thread. |
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#15 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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"Thank you for your e-mail.
In response, I would explain that the terminals on the SU-V460 unit were not designed to accommodate banana plugs. Thus, the speaker wires will need to be connected directly. I trust that the above information will be of assistance to you. However, of course, if you should have any further queries, please do not hesitate to contact us. Kind Regards, Customer Service Team Technics" That clears that up then. Wish I hadn't just ordered 2 pairs of slim banana plugs now. Still, perhaps they might still fit. |
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