Does anywhere in the UK still have much of a music scene?
I know venues have been shutting left, right and centre these days and there don't seem to be many bands breaking through to the mainstream which suggests there's not much going on underground.
Is indie dead?
Where in the country can one find a live music scene?

London doesn't count here. Obviously.

As I live in London I probably don't know what I'm talking about...

but Brighton and Leeds both seem to have lots of good gigs when I read the listings.

Why doesn't London count, obviously?

Glasgow is pretty good, the rest of scotland not so much though.

Too "well duh". London is a beast of its own, doesn't really compete with normal British cities.

I go to a metal club in Sheffield, that's my scene really. Only club I've been to where you can get pissed in the main room, then have a debate about the big bang theory in the outside area

Whilst it is a cliche, I do think they genres of music you listen to makes a difference.

As a Hard Rock/Heavy Metal/Progressive Music fan there are always lots of gigs at the likes of The Fleece, Motion, The Exchange, Marble Factory, and O2 Academy in Bristol, as well as Tramshed, The Globe, and Motorpoint Arena, in Cardiff.

It is the nightclub scene that seems to be crashing.

I wish!
Nightclubs are all there is these days it seems. Impossible to socialise without people inevitably wanting to go to such a place.

Not that I would have any interest in going to one, but the number of nightclubs has halved in the last decade, so they aren't as popular as they used to be.

Number Of Nightclubs Almost Halved In The Past Decade: Nine Reasons For Declining Nightlife

Sadly it just means those that there are have become even more crowded pits of despair.

I know the OP said to ignore London but it's interesting to see how little venues like the 12 Bar in central London are closing and more places are opening further out in east London, specially around Hackney which is great for Indie music.