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Car warning light |
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#26 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 11,679
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Quote:
On the Citroen you need to use the correct diagnostic tool which is called Lexia...this will be able to check every sensor and injector/fuel pump, fuel flow, etc, etc.
I use Lexia and it's sister tool PP2000 for Peugeots. To test your air flow meter disconnect the electrical connection that goes to it...if there is no difference then the air flow meter (sensor) is fine....if the engine runs badly then it's faulty. |
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#27 |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3,640
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Quote:
I originally used to get it when it was reporting that a problem with either the mass air flow sensor (I think tht's right) or else an injector problem. I cured it by simply buying a EGR valve blocker off eBay for about £2.50. Some people achieve the same with a 10p coin.
Yes, very common thing to do with Citroen/Peugeot cars. |
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#28 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 351
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Quote:
If you want to read the codes yourself, this is a useful bit of kit
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B012IGGG24?psc=1 When I broke down in the Lake District the RAC man connected his laptop and had no idea what the problem was. At the garage they charged £70 fora diagnoses and £15 for a new sensor which solved the problem. I complained about the cost and the guy explained that the proper machine costs him £7k and even then it needs experience and skill to trace the fault with out throwing parts at it. |
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#29 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3,640
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Quote:
I'm not sure just how useful these things are. I got one and I can see my Focus is logging fault codes.... what now ?
When I broke down in the Lake District the RAC man connected his laptop and had no idea what the problem was. At the garage they charged £70 fora diagnoses and £15 for a new sensor which solved the problem. I complained about the cost and the guy explained that the proper machine costs him £7k and even then it needs experience and skill to trace the fault with out throwing parts at it. Good post ![]() Yes, you can get a code which will give you the answer to the problem straight away, but sometimes you get a code but need the experience to interpret what you have been given. You need to know how the car's systems work to be able to understand why something isn't working properly....Throwing parts at a problem can get very expensive, especially with electronic parts such as sensors and stuff...If I buy an electronic part it becomes non-returnable once you open the package it arrives in, eg, I could buy a sensor costing £300 and find that the fault was diagnosed by the code reader as a faulty sensor when it might only have been an earthing or a wiring fault connected with the sensor, unfortunately I'm stuck with the £300 sensor or charge it to the customer which is wrong! Finding the actual fault before spending money is critical! Regarding the expensive diagnostic kit...it not only costs money to buy, but also costs money to update as there is usually a monthly cost to access updates. |
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#30 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 11,679
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I find that most garages, even the small workshops, have one of these devices. I wouldn't have thought they'd have needed updating if they worked almost entirely on cars that were several years old. The trouble is that even the fault codes thrown up on an official dealer's kit can sometimes be misleading. My EGR valve problem was being shown as a fault with the mass air flow sensor and with the fuel injectors, as well as one or two other possibilities that I've forgotten about. Although they very useful, it is easy to see how they could be used by (hopefully a tiny minority of) unscrupulous garages to con people into paying for unnecessary replacement parts.
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#31 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3,640
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Quote:
I find that most garages, even the small workshops, have one of these devices. I wouldn't have thought they'd have needed updating if they worked almost entirely on cars that were several years old. The trouble is that even the fault codes thrown up on an official dealer's kit can sometimes be misleading. My EGR valve problem was being shown as a fault with the mass air flow sensor and with the fuel injectors, as well as one or two other possibilities that I've forgotten about. Although they very useful, it is easy to see how they could be used by (hopefully a tiny minority of) unscrupulous garages to con people into paying for unnecessary replacement parts.
The software updates are usually contracted in when you buy/lease the expensive diagnostic kits, so you don't have much choice! These kits have to work on ALL cars not just older ones! "The trouble is that even the fault codes thrown up on an official dealer's kit can sometimes be misleading." ...This is where the skill and experience come in...as i said in my post, you have to interpret the messages you are being given...it isn't always as it seems! I said in my post above that you need to be certain of your diagnosis before buying new parts as electronic parts are usually non-returnable...hence the temptation to fit the part anyway and charge it to the customer. |
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#32 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 21,721
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Quote:
could be anything from minor fault to the engine is about to give out. No-one here is going to be able to diagnose it so get it to the garage
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#33 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 11,679
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My orange engine management light came on a couple of weeks ago and cleared after stopping and starting three times. The car has been running perfectly ever since.
What happens during the process in which the car electronics automatically trigger a process to refresh the catalytic converter? I've heard it only happens when the engine is at normal running temperature, but what actually happens and how is it scheduled? I would have thought this brief operation might cause the warning light to come on temporarily. This has always seemed a mystery to me. |
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#34 |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3,640
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Quote:
My orange engine management light came on a couple of weeks ago and cleared after stopping and starting three times. The car has been running perfectly ever since.
What happens during the process in which the car electronics automatically trigger a process to refresh the catalytic converter? I've heard it only happens when the engine is at normal running temperature, but what actually happens and how is it scheduled? I would have thought this brief operation might cause the warning light to come on temporarily. This has always seemed a mystery to me. Do you mean a dpf regeneration? It depends on temperature, yes, but dpf temperature not engine temperature. With the Citroen diesels there a is fluid that is injected into the dpf which will raise the temperature and help to burn off the soot in the dpf...this happens in conjunction with the glow plugs. The number of times the fluid is injected is related to how many times you actually fill your fuel tank, so filling your tank a little at a time can exhaust the special fluid too early. The computer will sense when the regeneration needs to take place and can be noticed by the radiator fans coming on, a slightly raised engine temperature, a slight misfire, black soot coming out the exhaust, etc. The management light sometimes flashes. You (I) can check the amount of times the regeneration has occurred and the approx mileage to the next one using the Lexia software. A forced regeneration can be applied using the software or sometimes by driving the engine hard on the road. Other vehicles may use a different method, such as injecting diesel into the dpf and igniting it using glow plugs to help burn off the soot. |
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