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Old 26-10-2006, 19:34
StereRowe
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I've repaired a few in my time but this one has me stumped!

The model is a Panny NV-HD100.

The problem is when you re-wind a tape it reaches the end & then switches-off. You then need to wait as much as an hour before it will turn back on.

If I leave the cover off the problem virtually - but not completely - disappears.

Something is getting warm me thinks - could even be a dry-joint - but I'm damned if I can find it.

Any suggestions?

StereRowe
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Old 26-10-2006, 20:19
iDan
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Oooh, I've got one of those!

Not sure of the fault, it's an old and complicated machine though, i'd be looking at the power supply though, does it die completely? or does the clock continue going?

The remote on mine is tempermental (lovely remote, too! With VideoPlus built in) and the LCD screen on the front doesn't work.

So if anyone knows anything about getting a new remote for it, i'm all ears! also about the LCD fault.

Let me know how you get on.
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Old 27-10-2006, 13:12
AubreyStevens
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I have a VCR problem. I've had this Panasonic NVF 65 for 16 years and it's been great. I always leave it on standby. Last night it was very windy and the lights were flickering so when I went to bed I switched off at the mains.I switched back on at the mains today and no lights came on,I pressed the on button off and on a few times but still nothing. I checked the fuse in the mains plug,all OK. This machine has never let me down before.


Any advice appreciated.
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Old 27-10-2006, 13:34
Fred Smith
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Regarding both PSU faults, if your Panasonics are anything like my Sony SLV-F700 (correct model number I think), the PSU is in a metal box with very poor cooling, even if it not, due to the outer casing anyway also preventing cooling I would suspect the electrolytic capacitors in the PSU.

My Sony 'died' and I found one electrolytic 47uf 50V I think, very low in value, so I changed all electrolytics in the PSU and all is well.

Last edited by Fred Smith : 27-10-2006 at 13:35.
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Old 27-10-2006, 16:03
AubreyStevens
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Guess what ?

Just plugged my VCR into the mains again and now everything has switched on. ?????????

Must be an iffy something somewhere.

Guess after 16 years I shouldn't complain. It's weathered the years better than me.
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Old 27-10-2006, 16:33
far
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Might as well mention my Toshiba V858B of 1999 vintage. Over the past few years when the tape has been Fast Forwarded, when play is pressed, the top half of the picture is full of noise (like a blank tape) and the VCR shuts off after a few seconds unless Review is pressed for a few seconds. This gets rid of the noise and prevents the VCR from switching off. If after Fast Forwarding record is pressed, only the bottom half of the picture is recorded for the first few seconds. Head Cleaning has been attmpted with the unit open and a chamois leather used with alcohol but this has had little effect (the picture was and is still excellent despite these problems).

A new fault with this one over the past few days is that the tape occasionally spontaneously ejects when the unit is placed into Timer Recording mode. I suspect this is a fault with the electronics somewhere so will just have to put up with it but am curious if anyone has any (easy) suggestions.
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Old 27-10-2006, 21:47
StereRowe
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Well a possible solution to my OP may be found here
Solutions to other posts on this thread may also be found. It's worth a look.

Let me know how you get on.
My problem may well be mechanical - poss' lubrication needed on one of the motors/capstans. Not tried yet, but will do.

StereRowe
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Old 27-10-2006, 22:44
AubreyStevens
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Thanks for the link.
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Old 28-10-2006, 02:08
Gavtech
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Originally Posted by AubreyStevens
I have a VCR problem. I've had this Panasonic NVF 65 for 16 years and it's been great. I always leave it on standby. Last night it was very windy and the lights were flickering so when I went to bed I switched off at the mains.I switched back on at the mains today and no lights came on,I pressed the on button off and on a few times but still nothing. I checked the fuse in the mains plug,all OK. This machine has never let me down before.


Any advice appreciated.
Failure of this sort after a break in power supply is due to C1109 1µF, 400V which is on the primary side of the power supply.

The chances are that the next time there is a mains interruption it will go dead again - despite coming back to life.
It only matters at start up.
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Old 28-10-2006, 07:40
Gavtech
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Originally Posted by StereRowe
I've repaired a few in my time but this one has me stumped!

The model is a Panny NV-HD100.

The problem is when you re-wind a tape it reaches the end & then switches-off. You then need to wait as much as an hour before it will turn back on.

If I leave the cover off the problem virtually - but not completely - disappears.

Something is getting warm me thinks - could even be a dry-joint - but I'm damned if I can find it.

Any suggestions?

StereRowe
The XRA6439P capstan drive chip is known to cause problems when the heatsink gets loose - which can happen.

If you think the problem might be mechanical as you say later... then some things to note:
To attend to cleaning and lubricating the capstan shaft you will have to remove the mech completely from the machine.

Take a picture or make a note of the bottom arrangement of the main drive belt because it is possible to reassemble this the wrong way.

The mode switch has to be removed to be able to withdraw the Capstan shaft so make particular note of where the arrow on it is pointing .... Once removed by its one gold screw, move neither it nor the mechanism or timing will be lost. [ Mark the meshing gears if necessary ]

The belt tensioner assembly and the capstan brake assembly must also be removed [ ...couple of gold screws ]

Then you can withdraw the capstan . The thing to watch for here - as you withdraw from the bottom - try to watch the top and ensure that you do not lose the 2 oils seals which go at the top and bottom of the bearing housing.
These are fiddly to put back in when you reassemble. Tweezers req. They will sit in the housing and have about 15 mm each movement before they come up against stops.
The bottom seal will need to be pushed down to its proper seating when the capstan is reinserted . The top one takes care of itself.

You will almost certainly find that the top bearing has dried and scored the shaft of capstan. Replacement is ideal but you can usually get more life out of them by oiling the bearings [ sintered bronze bushes] and leaving for a little while before reassembly.

Once the shaft is back in and the oil seals relocated .... before replacing the belt, thoroughly clean all of the exposed shaft with isopropanol [ or meth. spirit ], rotating the capstan by hand to remove all traces of oil... or you'll regret it.

Reassemble and good luck.
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Old 28-10-2006, 07:56
AubreyStevens
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Originally Posted by Gavtech
Failure of this sort after a break in power supply is due to C1109 1µF, 400V which is on the primary side of the power supply.

The chances are that the next time there is a mains interruption it will go dead again - despite coming back to life.
It only matters at start up.
Thanks for that I'm sure I have a circuit diagram for this machine and have a friend who might be able to fix it. I doubt it's worth taking into a shop for repair.
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Old 28-10-2006, 08:07
Gavtech
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Originally Posted by Telly_Man

The remote on mine is tempermental (lovely remote, too! With VideoPlus built in) and the LCD screen on the front doesn't work.
Probably nothing more required than cleaning the battery contacts ... and perhaps retensioning them.
Originally Posted by Telly_Man
So if anyone knows anything about getting a new remote for it, i'm all ears! also about the LCD fault.
The fluorescent display unit CAN fail ... but it is more likely to be dry joints at either end of the display... or somwhere in the connection train.
I don't know this exact model but it is typically pins 1 and 2 and 33 and 34.
If not that then check the power supplies.
Suspect C1143.
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Old 28-10-2006, 09:57
iDan
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Originally Posted by Gavtech
Probably nothing more required than cleaning the battery contacts ... and perhaps retensioning them.

The fluorescent display unit CAN fail ... but it is more likely to be dry joints at either end of the display... or somwhere in the connection train.
I don't know this exact model but it is typically pins 1 and 2 and 33 and 34.
If not that then check the power supplies.
Suspect C1143.
Thanks! Will check it out, I know the remote is faulty though, not just the batteries or connections.
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Old 28-10-2006, 10:06
Gavtech
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Originally Posted by Telly_Man
Thanks! Will check it out, I know the remote is faulty though, not just the batteries or connections.
is it only certain buttons that are affected?
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Old 28-10-2006, 12:33
Orbitalzone
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OK I haven't read all this text but if it's a Panasonic with the 'K' deck mechanism, these have a number of common faults..... one fault is that the loading drive motor has a plastic thing that connects the motor's metal spindle to the drive cog that turns the whole mechanism. This 20p nylon bit splits and slips when the motor turns. Often this happens when the thing warms up and so can be intermittent. You can usually tell if this is the problem as you can here the motor spinning but nothing moves.

I'm not sure if this is your NVHD100 problem but it might be....

However to replace this component requires the whole deck removed, dismantled and rebuilt with the new bit fitted. It is something that can't be done without either experience of re-timing the mechanism and / or using a service manual to realign everything.

A few years back I repaired dozens of 'K' Deck panasonics for this and other faults. It seemed that the centre loading versions of the K deck were much worse than the left hand side loading K decks (like the NVHD100 which was an excellent machine)

I have a K deck service manual on my site <here> the loading motor is on Page4 and shows it inplace with the worm screw drive on it, the bit that splits sits inside the worm screw drive.

Last edited by Orbitalzone : 28-10-2006 at 12:39.
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Old 28-10-2006, 13:43
Gavtech
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Originally Posted by Orbitalzone

However to replace this component requires the whole deck removed, dismantled and rebuilt with the new bit fitted. It is something that can't be done without either experience of re-timing the mechanism and / or using a service manual to realign everything.
I don't think it is quite as bad as you paint it.

Yes, the deck has to come out, but then it is just a case of releasing the one gold screw that holds the white plastic loading motor cage, and then installing the new component onto it's shaft and replacing.[ Pulling the motor out the cage helps]

The timing remains unaffected.
I don't think it is beyond a careful and sensible novice.

The big problem for most people is just getting the part.
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Old 28-10-2006, 14:31
The_Master
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All you Panasonic owners should have bought a Matsui. Mine from 1987 is still going strong.
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Old 28-10-2006, 15:17
Orbitalzone
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Originally Posted by Gavtech
I don't think it is quite as bad as you paint it.

Yes, the deck has to come out, but then it is just a case of releasing the one gold screw that holds the white plastic loading motor cage, and then installing the new component onto it's shaft and replacing.[ Pulling the motor out the cage helps]

The timing remains unaffected.
I don't think it is beyond a careful and sensible novice.

The big problem for most people is just getting the part.

hmm you're probably right if you know exactly what to do and not disturb the rest of the mechanism.

I think I was thinking about other repairs on the K deck where all the timing goes screwy. It was a few years since i repaired them so might be thinking of something else.

Now, where's my stash of those nylon bits?
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Old 28-10-2006, 15:39
AubreyStevens
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Originally Posted by The_Master
All you Panasonic owners should have bought a Matsui. Mine from 1987 is still going strong.


I wouldn't buy anything from Dixons especailly their own cheap brands. I'm a fan of Panasonic.
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Old 28-10-2006, 15:55
StereRowe
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Gavtech many thanks for your detailed reply. Thanks also to Orbitalzone including your link.

You've both given me something to be looking at & it's appreciated.

StereRowe

Last edited by StereRowe : 28-10-2006 at 15:58.
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Old 28-10-2006, 16:19
The_Master
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Originally Posted by AubreyStevens
I wouldn't buy anything from Dixons especailly their own cheap brands. I'm a fan of Panasonic.

Actually it came from Currys, before it was merged with Dixons.

Feel free to prefer Panasonic, but my Matsui hasn't broken down has it? I also have VHS machines by Toshiba and JVC.
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Old 28-10-2006, 16:31
AubreyStevens
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Currys Dixons and PC World are all crap. I believe John Lewis is good.

I wouldn't take a Matsui product for free. I'd be embarrassed to have it in my house.

Last edited by AubreyStevens : 28-10-2006 at 16:32.
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Old 28-10-2006, 16:46
The_Master
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Originally Posted by AubreyStevens
Currys Dixons and PC World are all crap. I believe John Lewis is good.

I wouldn't take a Matsui product for free. I'd be embarrassed to have it in my house.

Who are you frightened will see it, the label police?
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Old 28-10-2006, 17:09
JBlink
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Originally Posted by AubreyStevens
Currys Dixons and PC World are all crap. I believe John Lewis is good.
They do sell many of the same brands actually so I think it is just a little bit overstated to call them crap. However I would always buy from JL if possible as they price match and usually offer longer warranty. Most of my kit is big name branded, but I have had several Matsui units as well and have no complaints about them.
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Old 29-10-2006, 21:40
bobcar
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Originally Posted by AubreyStevens

I wouldn't take a Matsui product for free. I'd be embarrassed to have it in my house.
Very sad. . Just put a piece of tape over the manufactures name and write Panasonic on it, no one will know.
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